Hearth and Insieme's Marco Canora and Paul Grieco bring comfort and warmth to the otherwise dusty concept of a wine bar. Terroir views the fermented pressings of grapes as characteristic flags planting in different soils, a conception that gives them extraordinary grasp over the nuances of flavor and body that dictate a wine's most useful purpose and makes them masters of the recommended glass. The selections are deep and well-curated at Terroir, with a broad range of whites, reds, champagnes, and sparkling wines, not to mention a truly baffling number of ciders, sherries, and madeira.

The food program is about what you'd expect from a wine bar, with salads, cheese, and charcuterie acting as the reliable infantry of the menu's army, and snacks like olives, roasted beets, pickles, and the like. What's surprising is the varieties of bruschetta available, from a simple whipped lard version to tomato, basil, and egg, to a "bone marrow boat" bruschetta. While all of that is well and good and will definitely keep the tannins from hitting the headache button, it's the goofy selection of paninis you'll want to peruse, like the duck ham panini with hen of the woods mushrooms and Taleggio cheese, and whether you get them in a sub or not, the veal and ricotta meatballs are one dish you have to eat, unless you've opted for the schnitzel and potato salad, in which case: well played!