One of the most picturesque and historic neighborhoods in New York, Harlem is a vibrant area currently undergoing a massive real estate transformation. Although the classic brownstones and historic buildings of Mount Morris and Hamilton Heights are an integral part of this tour, we also include highlights of 125th Street, the main east-west thoroughfare. The tour also includes optional restaurant visits as well as self-catering options. This route is easily reversed, and can be split into two parts with a lunch break in the middle.
We begin on West 110th Street, the northern end of Central Park, after a ride on the 2 or 3 subway train. Most visitors to Central Park never see its northern reaches, which is a pity. Some of the most interesting and challenging terrain can be found here, and a bike ride around the area is well worth the time. Begin by walking north on Lenox Avenue, renamed Malcolm X Boulevard after one of Harlem's most famous sons.
A bit of background: Peter Stuyvesant, the Dutch governor, created Nieuw Haarlem in 1658 in this northern area of Manhattan, and East 125th Street was where the first settlers built their village. Farming was the main source of economic activity, and later we will head to the Hamilton Grange, once the homestead of Alexander Hamilton, author of the Federalist Papers and architect of much of the early years of the American republic until his untimely death during a duel with Aaron Burr in Weehawken (NJ) in 1804. A largely Irish shantytown grew in western Harlem in the late 19th century, and this sparsely-inhabited area began to grow once the elevated railroads began serving the area after 1880. Extraordinary development began in the ensuing years up to the turn of the 20th century, and the famous architectural firm of McKim, Mead & White had their hands in building both some phenomenal houses in the West 130's as well as the new campus of Columbia University east of Broadway around West 116th Street. But it was the Interborough Rapid Transit Company's subway along Lenox Avenue, where you now stand, that brought massive speculation after 1900.
As construction boomed, hundreds of new buildings sprouted up in this area, and while development slowed down tremendously 20 years later, it was at this time the Harlem Renaissance began, an extraordinary blossoming of culture that left a lasting legacy on American history. By now you will reach West 120th Street, and our tour continues up Malcolm X Boulevard to West 123rd Street. Turn right on West 123rd Street, and examine some of the spectacular buildings on this block: the Harlem Club at number 34 is a phenomenal example of Queen Anne-style architecture. Next door, the former Harlem Library, which is now the Bethel A.M.E. Church. (The library moved in 1909 to a McKim, Mead & White building at 9-11 West 124th Street, also a splendid edifice.) Bethel A.M.E. has a long and fascinating history, and is worth a visit inside. At 28-30 West 123rd Street, stop to admire these very narrow homes, before you continue down the block to Mount Morris Park West. The remaining houses on this block are remarkably different!
Cross Mount Morris Park West for a look at Marcus Garvey Park, along with its ancient fire watch tower. Then return to the west side of the street and head south back down to West 121 Street, pausing to admire the Harlem Presbyterian Church as well as the two spectacular buildings on the north and south side of West 121 Street. Our tour continues west on West 121 Street, then make a right back on Malcolm X Boulevard. This time, you will go left on West 122 Street, stopping at these truly extraordinary row houses along the block, which are widely considered among the best in all of New York City. Continue to the end of the block to reach Adam Clayton Powell, Jr. Boulevard, and make a right. You will now walk north to 125th Street. This completes part one of the tour.
While the great buildings of Mount Morris are among New York's finest, it is West 125th Street that Harlem's vibrancy and cultural life are everywhere visible.
The current real-estate boom has been acutely felt in Harlem, particularly as lower-rent tenants feel the pressure to vacate their apartments to make way for speculators. Housing prices have soared, and while there were some tremendous values in the 1990s, those abandoned buildings have largely become renovated townhouses renting at high prices. Meanwhile, the commercial real estate market has mostly thrived on and surrounding 125th Street, and major national chain stores and outlets like Starbucks have moved in. While some old-timers bemoan the quick pace of change, new upscale stores and restaurants appear to be doing quite well. Former President Bill Clinton moved his offices to 55 West 125th Street, just east of Malcolm X Boulevard, after leaving the White House. As you reach 125th Street, you might consider pausing for a lunch break. What better place than at Sylvia's, the self-declared Queen of Soul Food? Just walk back to Malcolm X Boulevard, cross 125th Street and head north—you can't miss Sylvia's! However, on a Sunday after church services, be prepared to wait, possibly for a long time!
We now continue west on 125th Street, making our way to St. Nicholas Avenue. If you're tired, it might be a good time to pause for lunch. Or consider taking a taxi to our next destination, St. Nicholas Avenue and West 141 Street. If you're still walking, you'll pass a few fried chicken joints on the way as well as other reasonably-priced dining options, but if northern-style BBQ is what you crave, consider walking further west—all the way west—on 126th Street (which becomes 129th Street) to 12th Avenue, then a block north to Dinosaur BBQ, located just south of the massive Fairway Market (think self-catering) and north of the famous Cotton Club. This isn't southern cooking; it's Upstate New York imported to Harlem. But it sure is popular.
If you didn't make the detour, walk north on St. Nicholas Avenue to West 141 Street, the St. Nicholas Park will be to your left the whole way. We now walk west on 141 Street, following the St. Nicholas Park. You might want to have a look at the park; its geological features are quite interesting. Continue on to St. Luke's Episcopal Church at the corner of Convent Avenue, where we begin part two of our tour.
If the church is not open, definitely stop at the next building to the north, the Hamilton Grange, begun in 1798. Now cross Convent Avenue to admire the beautiful row houses. If you're interested in seeing the City College campus, a tour unto itself, walk south across 140th Street and take your time to admire the campus. We now continue up to West 144 Street, where we see marvelous examples of Queen Anne-style architecture at 330-336 Convent Avenue. Indeed this area is one of the most spectacular in all of New York City, and you should take the time to explore the block of 144 Street to your west and to your east, before continuing up to the Baptist Church at the corner of 145 Street. Depending on your energy level, you can opt to end here at the nearby subway station, or continue on a loop as follows: walk north to 150th Street (the west side of the street is more spectacular), then east back to St. Nicholas Avenue. Continue south on St. Nicholas Avenue back to West 145 Street, and head to the subway or take a detour to the City College campus if you did not do so earlier.
