Perry St.

A 60-seat restaurant amidst the three gleaming Richard Meier glass towers along rapidly-developing West Street, celebrity chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten pares it down with his latest offering. Rather than the over-the-top attributes that characterized 66, Spice Market and V Steakhouse, his intent at Perry St. is to present a reworked and simplified menu, similar to that at Jean-Georges. Interestingly, one of Meier's tribe, Thomas Juul-Hansen, designed the clever u-shaped dining room, which can only be described as minimalist, yet seems highly appropriate for this location across from the Hudson River Park. Fortunately the windows feature mesh screens, because the late afternoon and summertime evening sunsets can feature exceedingly harsh but beautiful light.

Vongerichten made a wise decision to open here, because with the profusion of restaurants in the nearby Meatpacking District as well as newcomers to the High Line Park vicinity, he has a large crowd to draw on—and to please. Apparently Vongerichten has returned to his senses and his original magic mix, because Frank Bruni of the New York Times awarded Perry St. three stars in September 2005, just weeks after the restaurant opened. But barely a year later, the service issues that plagued his aging restaurants seem to have appeared at Perry St. Service at times seems lackluster, when not indifferent. Some staff seem to not have a good enough command of English to do their jobs, frustrating diners who strain to understand them. Timing can be off, with appetizers appearing minutes after they are ordered, yet no server to be found when one is needed (a frequent New York complaint, we do note). The servers are quite aggressive in pushing certain entrees as well as bottled water. During a recent dining experience, we were asked by no fewer than three servers in a span of five minutes (yes, we checked the wristwatch) whether we would require another bottle of San Pellegrino, although our existing bottle was not yet empty. Considering our four entrees alone were $150, this seems rather churlish.

Service issues aside, the dishes are superb. Asian-themed fish appetizers are attractive and delightful, and the meat entrees are delicious. When possible, opt for the excellent lamb or rabbit entrees, and the tenderloin is also fantastic. Although Vongerichten intends to change the menu from time to time, nothing here seems outrageous, too bold or brash. Fish dishes are particularly enjoyable, especially when you are gazing westward towards the Hudson River, dreaming of being in a faraway place by the sea.

Final note: we know of no other high-end restaurant with so much obvious video surveillance this side of Las Vegas.