The Spotted Pig

Invasion of the Gastro-Pubs!

When a pub with a wholly British name peeks out from a quiet urban corner, one expects to find a dark wood interior, grumpy old men at the bar, and bready ales paired with toad-in-the-hole and spotted dick. But the Spotted Pig is anything but an old Pig and Whistle dressed up for a village dinner. It is a gastro-pub, the New Urban reinvention of the British Pub known to us chiefly through the tired Andy Capp cartoons; gone are the lumpers and chip buddies. Welcome, sublime arugala salad with toasted pumpkin.

While the interior of the Spotted Pig does have its pub elements, including ales and porcine art, there is something else going on here – small ledges for plates, elegant pieces of vegetal art framed and hung, tiny tables tucked into corners, hopeful diners lined up at the door, murmurs at the bar and wistful glances at passing plates of food.

Chef April Bloomfield offers up quirky chicken liver parfait, filling shepherd’s pie, grilled potato bread and smoke-haddock chowder. All are worth trying, as are her salads, which are a must-taste. One glorious offering is the vitello tonnato, made with pork. The menu changes with the seasons and availability, and has pasta surprises sprinkled throughout. Do not be afraid to try one as an appetizer.

A great surprise is the wine list, inspired by partners Mario Batali and Joe Bastianich, is very nice, if weighted towards Friulian – but who can complain about that? There is something magical about sitting in a pub and drinking a fabulous Italian wine. But then the magic of the Spotted Pig is how this gastro-pub combines the best of pub, trattoria and urban hot-spot.

Other notes: The cask-conditioned ales are from Brooklyn Brewery. Owner Ken Friedman is pals with Bono, so there are plenty of Star Gazers and Glam Packs vying for tables; the upstairs is now open.

Tip: arrive early. The small space fills up fast, made even more popular with the award of one Michelin star in Fall 2005.