John Dory CLOSED

First, they lose an eel that cost them four large, and now this: John Dory has closed.

That beloved fish of the English has resulted in a Brit-style seafood restaurant perched (no pun intended) between Craftsteak and Del Posto. The best things that happen to us are those that we didn't expect and didn't we needed. Like The Spotted Pig and Fatty Crab, two gastro-delights, New Yorkers did not know they needed The John Dory. But they do.

Step into a fish-themed, fished-devoted world of fish love and find the same art on your plate that made you push your friends out of the way so that you could a table at the Spotted Pig.

Chef April Bloomfield serves up great sea-fare presented in a fun atmosphere that does not reek of pretense or some terrible "hook" to get diners in through the door.

It's not a big resto; in fact, the actual seating area is much smaller than it looks. Diners beware: A reservation is a very good idea. Otherwise, elbow into the crowd at the bar and order a plate of cod milt. You will not regret it.

Among the dishes that are must-tries: Razor clam ceviche, oyster pan roast with sea urchin butter crositini, cod milt, whole John Dory for two, grilled sardines and the sweet potatoes with marrow.

And don't worry, there are a few "meaty" dishes on the menu for those who date carnivores (a steak and a chorizo-stuffed squid, for example).

Another plus is the presence of David Lynch (the sommelier), another of the great things about New York, who keeps the wine & beverage list in ship shape.