Cercle Rouge

The former chef of Lutèce, David Féau, created this stylish TriBeCa French bistro that includes a raw bar, and includes a few American touches. Its style emulates the 1970 movie of the same name, le cercle rouge, and seats 95 in the main dining room, which includes a trendy red circular booth in the middle of the dining room. The raw bar at back covers the seafood spectrum from caviar to oysters. Bistro fare includes Foie Gras Terrine and Country Toast, Frisee Crispy Bacon with Sherry Dressing and Poached Egg, Poached Leeks Dijon Mustard Shallot Vinaigrette, Poached Lobster with Warm Butter and Cocktail Sauce, Grilled Veal Kidney with Roasted Tomatoes and French Fries, Cote de Boeuf for Two, and a variety of seafood dishes. Meat dishes, as expected, are substantial; the raw bar offerings are superb; and service can be quite variable.
The rather charming dining room (along with the wide-ranging menu) appears to be suffering from some sort of post-colonial hangover. Some decorations evoke a Paris bistro, while others seem lifted from an Outback Steak House. While it tries to be several things at once, Cercle Rouge definitely does succeed in serving up rather average, but palatable dishes. The dining experience here varies considerably: A tasteful and smallish rear dining room has the elements of a private dining room without being private; the bar can be both boisterous and enjoyable; and seating ranges from cozy and charming to uncomfortable and cramped. But considering that Cercle Rouge became an instant hit, Féau clearly knows how to mix and match elements for success.