Centrico

Centrico ('centrally located' in Spanish), the latest concept from renowned restaurateur Drew Nieporent, is a fresh interpretation of regional Mexican cuisine. Partnering with Nieporent is Aarón Sanchez, Centrico's chef, cookbook author and Food Network star. With the new restaurant, Sanchez, son of the legendary chef Zarela Martinez, goes back to his roots to cook the Mexican food of his childhood.

His food marries Mexican tradition with an American perspective, emphasizing seasonal ingredients and modern technique. Sanchez aims to showcase his homeland's gastronomic depth and variety--which he likens to the diversity of France's provinces. Centrico's menu is a journey through the Mexican states, with picadas (corn tarts with salsa) from Michoacán, torta de mariscos (seafood frittata) from Veracruz, cochinita pibil (slow roasted suckling pig) from the Yucatán, and birria (braised short ribs in ancho chile broth) from Jalisco. Sanchez adds his own creative touches, resulting in clean, vibrant flavors.

Sánchez knows his audience, and while the usual NYC standards (guacamole, quesadilla, steak, salmon, chicken) appear, his signature dishes are particularly enjoyable: The tacos de pesado (seared swordfish tacos) and atun a la plancha (seared rare tuna with mango jicama salad), are both attractive and satisfying appetizer portions. For entrees, the bistec en epazote (grilled adobo sirloin steak with adobo cactus), asado pibil (slow roasted pork shoulder achiote) and codorniz a la parilla (grilled quail) are especially interesting. These large portions are heavy on meat, and side dishes of vegetables are a nice complement. Outdoor seating in good weather is cozy and very TriBeCa, and the specialty cocktails add great flavor and zest to the dining experience here.