Blaue Gans

Kurt Gutenbrunner of Wallsé, Thor and Café Sabarsky fame has transformed TriBeCa's Le Zinc into an Austrian restaurant within close proximity of beloved top-ranked Danube. European art and film posters line the walls, and handsome furnishings make for a very gemütlich (cozy) atmosphere. Service is impeccable, though relaxed, and servers are helpful in translating the German names of the dishes.

On a recent visit, we were informed that some of the dishes had changed since the blackboard with the daily features was chalked up! For example, a Jägerschnitzel was replaced by a different schnitzel, and a certain wurst was no longer available. Even during the course of our dinner, we noticed guests started to receive fresh-bazed Bretzel instead of the bread we received. Although that amount of uncertainty can work in a ski resort in the Vorarlberg, we wonder how long it will be the case in TriBeCa, where dining is a competitive sport. Nevertheless, the food is excellent, every dish worth sampling. A smoked trout with cream sauce was exquisite, several pork dishes were impeccable, served with crisp potatoes and red cabbage. A goulash was equally delightful. And the desserts, though simple (such as Apfelstrudel and Sachertorte) are most divine. Wine and beer selections are rudimentary, but also well-chosen. If you can deal with a bit of uncertainty, Blaue Gans is assuredly the top restaurant in New York right now in the no-reservations category.