Allegretti

In recent years, the cuisine of la France has not fared so well in our city, given the preponderance of Asian-fusion and Italian restaurants. Alain Allegretti, formerly of Le Cirque 2000 and Atelier, has fortunately opened a charming new French restaurant in the Flatiron district. Stripped of the usual artifice and serving top-quality meals at reasonable prices in this difficult economy, Allegretti features a small bar area and modest dining room. Its charms are many, from the modest artwork and discrete decor to the cordial but unstilted staff. The wine list offers a superb selection of fairly-priced vintages, with a nod to some more unusual varietals from Languedoc, Jura, and points farther afield. The dining room is neither hushed nor noisy, allowing for a tranquil and unhurried meal of several courses.

While focusing on the cuisine of Provence, Allegretti also tips the hat to the lighter fare of the Italian coast. An attractive Mediterranean Ceviche has a nice hint of citrus, whereas the classic Provençale Fish Soup is neither overwhelming nor massive. Served with classic rouille and croutons, it has the well-focused balances of flavors that evoke the fresh catches on the southern coast of France. All the appetizers as well as pasta courses offer a nice selection of vegetables, thus negating the constant concerns one hears in New York these days about the evil of carbohydrates. For example, the Carnaroli Risotto is harmoniously flavored with a charming variety of green summer vegetables whereas the delicate Niçois Ravioli, gentle pillows of braised oxtail with chard, pignoli and beef jus, are light and immensely flavorful.

One hears much of late from chefs about costs for raw ingredients spiraling out of control; given the rapid inflation of the past year, it comes as no surprise that the average price of an entree has accordingly increased. Yet the fine selection of main courses—several fish and meats—are artfully served at Allegretti, with portions fortunately on the smallish side. It would be indecorous to suggest that one way to keep prices reasonable is to trim portion sizes; instead, we find Allegretti has dedicated himself to serving proper portion sizes as you would find in Europe (as opposed to those supersized American plates so frequently seen). This comes as a welcome relief to the reviewer who wishes to preserve his waistline after four courses and several glasses of wine, who notes that Allegretti has most assuredly not skimped on proper table service. When a diner opted out of a first course, he nonetheless received a handsome plate, fork and knife—promptly whisked away after his dining companions finished their course, only to be replated with fresh cutlery. Such service in New York is seen less frequently these days, and is a welcome reminder that excellent table service still does exist. For main courses, Allegretti keeps the offerings deceptively simple. Flavorful Noix of Colorado Lamb are nicely arrayed with a selection of seasonal vegetables, though perhaps some a tad overcooked. A fine Duck Magret, pan-seared, features a most intriguing vinaigrette, whereas perfectly-cooked Diver Sea Scallops come with an intriguing Provençale-style selection of fennel, Niçoise olives and tomato-basil broth. We opted out of a number of intriguing accompaniments, which range from Panisses Niçoise to Wild Mushroom Trifolati to Zucchini Provençale.

As you would expect from an alumnus of Cirque, the creative desserts we sampled, a Licorice Panna Cotta with modest slices of sautéed Ananas as well as a Chocolate Fondant, were a fascinating combination of diverse yet not-too-sweet flavors. Accompanied by a modest yet subtle selection of after-dinner Port and liqueurs, we find Allegretti a welcome addition to the haute cuisine offerings this season.