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All Images © Barça 18
  Park Avalon
(212) 533-2500
225 Park Ave S,
New York, NY 10003+1604
 
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  EDITORIAL REVIEW

The former Park Avalon space looks great after its update: dark wood accented by yellow, orange and red tones, soft lighting cascading into dark the dining room, elegant furnishings and a knowing wink at modern art. Named after the famous Catalan city of Barcelona, Barça aims to bring a bit of the Spanish “tapas” habit to New York.

While the interior is nicely appointed, somehow it does not inspire Barcelona, nor Catalunya, nor even Madrid. In fact, there is much about it that seems strictly New World Urban. The red, yellow and orange tones do not evoke the Spanish flag so much as they do the desert southwest. It’s not that one cannot find these colors in Spain. It is the feel of the place that misses the mark. Traditional eateries in Barcelona and Madrid have that “comedor” feel (appointed in heavy wood and white tablecloths, where white-coated waiters serve small tumblers of wine and assume that you interested in the house specialty). Or, there are the true “tapas” bars, where people crowd in for a glass of wine or beer and a plate of “gambas al ajillo” (shrimp and garlic) or “tortilla Espanola” (potato omelet), or “jamón Serrano” (dry cured ham) served with a triangle of Manchego cheese. Or, there are the sleek, cutting edge venues, inspired by the legacy of Miro and Gaudi and by a newfound Spanish interest in the flavors of the “New World”.

Barça 18 seems to be caught somewhere in the middle of these impulses, and never quite makes its goal clear. It is not really a tapas place nor a comedor, nor is it Catalan, Basque or Andalus. It’s like a picture postcard with a dozen different squares all trying to tell a very long and complex story.

The spacious entry way is nice, and there is room to mill around the bar for a glass of wine and a tapa, an activity that is at the heart of the Spanish nightlife, the “la marcha” that attracts visitors and makes them sad to leave. But Barça feels static, so the energy buzzing at the bar quickly dissipates. One could forgive this when considering that the wine list is fantastic, and a big rioja by the glass is always a beautiful thing. But the tapas are expensive for what they are. One has to make a commitment to a pricey ”snack”. It seems better to commit to the $36 kobe beef entrée, than two or three tapas, one of which can be pleasing (bacalao coca) and the other perplexing (the empanada).

Yet the service here is exceptional. The host staff are welcoming, professional and “muy guapo”. It is nice to have so many beautiful people greet you and look after you and bring you things. There is a sense a comfort in all of this that again evokes the “comedor”, and one could suspect for a few seconds that roast suckling pig or a nice joint slow roasted with plum will be on the table. Alas, no. There is a mysterious absence of pork, except for the jamón Serrano and the chorizo.

While the bar-buzz pulls at guests, inviting them to investigate, while the dining room promises something different altogether; confusion can ensue. “Do I just want to hang out with a glass of wine and a tapa, or do I want to plunge into a huge plate of paella? I am no longer sure.”

If one does stay for dinner, comfortable two-tops provide private little nooks for the romantic, while roomy banquettes serve groups of four or more. If you are with a group of friends, get a roomy table and order several tapas and a pitcher of sangria or a bottle of rioja. Sit and talk and enjoy the space and the service. For two people, stick to the seafood entrees; order the swordfish and one of the paellas.

Notes on the menu:
The “aceitunas y almendras” (olives with toasted almonds) is not a mix not of Spanish olives but of Greek and Italian. In our order, were none of the ubiquitous varieties known throughout Spain, like manzanillas or camporreales. The olives are fine and well seasoned but they are not Spanish. The “empanadas” do not resemble the Spanish street food made with tuna and tomato. For paella, the plates are a decent size and the seafood choices are best. The best items are those “a la plancha”, cooked on the grill, or those that are traditional, such as the jamón Serrano and the manchego cheese.

Perhaps with time, the menu will come to lean to the pork and seafood dishes of coastal Spain, and the tapas will speak a little more Castelllano, Valenciano, Catalá and Euskadi.
 
 
 

EDITORIAL RATING

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Value:

 

3.8

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HOURS AND ADDITIONAL INFO

LUNCH
Monday - Saturday: 11:30am - 4:00pm

DINNER
Sunday - Monday: 5:00pm - 11:00pm
Tuesday - Thursday: 5:00pm - 12:00am
Friday - Saturday: 5:00pm - 12:30am

BRUNCH
Sunday: 11:30am - 4:00pm
Price: Moderate. About $16 to $30 per person.
Cuisines:
Spanish

 
 

PARK AVALON INFORMATION

 
Payment:
All Major
Ambience:
Business Casual
Casual
 
 
Reservations:
Recommended
 
 
 
 
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  PARK AVALON ADDRESS  
  Telephone:   (212) 533-2500  
  Address:   225 Park Ave S
New York NY 10003+1604
 
  Cross Streets:   bet. 18th & 19th Sts.  
  Subway:   4, 5, 6, N, R, L  to 14th Street/Union Square  
  Web Site:   Visit Official Site  
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