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  Ono
(212) 660-6766
18 Ninth Avenue,
New York, NY 10014
 
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  EDITORIAL REVIEW

The Gansevoort Hotel forms part of the glam blade that continues to slash through the Meatpacking district. From the exterior, the building is cold, minimalist modern. The white-on-white façade here evokes San Francisco chic from the early 1970’s, downplaying the whole notion of signage and eschewing the need to announce to anything at all. The only signs of life are the diners framed by the windows along Hudson Street. Otherwise, it looks as though no one is home. Once inside, however, the mood instantly changes.

The semicircle bar throbs with music, designer cocktails and sexual tension as young women with high-intensity hair color and a fair amount of cleavage exchange looks and nods with manicured young men in expensive suits. Approaching the host stand can be a challenge, and if you are not glammed-out you might get a little resistance. Ignore all that and head for the food, which is a mixture of traditional Japanese and modern trends.

The interior is vast, the ceiling strung with Japanese paper art that floats in the ether high above. Large, dark-wood tables are packed into this very stylish setting, making it impossible to cut a straight path from one end to the other. But that’s okay – the arrangement allows one to meander through the dining room and eavesdrop on the loud conversations that are everywhere.

If you are there with a friend, sit at the sushi bar where the light level is higher and the noise level lower. You can watch the sushi masters put together some truly beautiful dishes, or watch the army of hibachi grills flaming into the air. If you are dining with out-of-town guests, sit towards the back of the dining room or in the mezzanine section so that they can take it all in. Watch as the servers and food runners laden with food and drink attempt to navigate the dark, narrow zigzags between tables.

The sleek menu is book-like, to the point of bewildering for some. A page of appetizers is followed by two pages of robata (Japanese brochettes), sushi, maki, and specialty rolls, and finally a page of massive entrees. Among the most outstanding items are the mushroom appetizer – shitake and matsutake mushrooms prepared in a mushroom curd. Also tasty are the shishoto pepper robata (four jalapeno-sized peppers grilled on bamboo skewers - not spicy, but very flavorful), and the Japanese yam robata. The sushi and maki offerings are elegantly presented but standard fare. The “Fire & Ice” sushi selections are visually interesting only. The huge entrees are meant for sharing. A must-try is the surf-and-turf, a huge slab of Kobe beef tied with snow crab legs steamed in au jus (and it really is big enough for two). A nice treat is the pre-meal crispy rice pancake seasoned with salts, spices and sugars.

The champagne and wine lists are very good, although more white wine by the glass would be an improvement. Saki selection is excellent. The tea selection is also very good. Try any tea that features toasted sesame.

The service is efficient, despite the fact that the place is extremely large and very busy. High-maintenance tables or groups of more than four can slow down service. Best to go in twos or fours, and to sit at the sushi bar or in the mezzanine. Choose something you’ve never had before.
 
 
 

EDITORIAL RATING

Food:

Service:

Ambience:

Value:

 

3.5

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HOURS AND ADDITIONAL INFO

BREAKFAST
7am-11am
LUNCH
12pm-3pm
DINNER
Sun-Wed: 5pm-11pm
Thu-Sat: 5pm-12am
Price: Very Expensive. About $50 and up per person.
Cuisines:
Japanese

 
 

ONO INFORMATION

 
Payment:
All Major
Ambience:
Business Casual
Casual
 
 
Reservations:
Recommended
 
 
 
 
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  ONO ADDRESS  
  Telephone:   (212) 660-6766  
  Address:   18 Ninth Avenue
New York NY 10014
 
  Cross Streets:   West 13th Street & Gansevoort Street  
  Web Site:   www.chinagrillmgt.com  
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