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REVIEW
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RATING |
REVIEW |
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4.8
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Exoticism on a plate
Pros: gracious host, creative food, mood
Cons:
After 22 years off-Broadway, Jean-Claude’s tribute to his adoptive mother, Josephine Baker, still exudes the sexy exoticism of the legendary performer herself. And after all this time, visitors are still greeted warmly at the door by their host and treated to beautifully-plated culinary delights. Dripping in red drapery, rich textured walls, and life-sized posters, photos and nudes Ms. Baker in every state of undress, including her signature banana-skirt, as a pianist provides Broadway inspired torch music. The menu is inspired by the dual personality of the lovely American in Paris with a blend of fine dining experiences from both sides of the l’Atlantique. Appetizers include escargots, green and white asparagus, or Marlyland crab cakes with tartar sauce. Rather than the onion soup or lobster bisque, I went the day’s special soup, a wild mushroom bisque as aromatic as it was farm-fresh and fulfilling. For our entrées, I immersed myself into the lobster cassoulet, a sampling of fresh warm sea foods in a broth and black beans. Although the beans and the broth were not exceptionally rich, I was glad that they did not compete with the flavorful scallops, shrimps and lobster bits. My lovely guest enjoyed a cold lobster salad of lobster removed from the shell, greens, cucumbers and caviar. For dessert, we finished our meal with a light lemon tarte brûleé which came with a sweet raspberry dish. I, of course, went straight for the chocolate – Le Déleie Josephine, Chocolate Heaven, with a sweet selection of cocoa’d confections. I must admit that at the top of the stairs, facing two doors, I had a moment of confusion searching of the men’s room. One door is adorned with a life-size portrait of Josephine, looking as womanly as ever. The other door has the performer donning a full men’s tuxedo and hat. Of course, I found the coat room instead of the lav. The men’s water closet, it turns out is just a few feet farther down the hall, behind a door that is unmistakably male.
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Posted on 11/14/2008.
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