Chef Pierre's reviews of new NYC restaurants

Dining Review: Mexican Meets Thai at Salsa Y Salsa

2008-12-17T09:40:59-05:00

For the discriminating palate that enjoys the myriad flavors of Mexico ranging from the fulfilling Comida Yucateca to the complex Mole Poblano, New York frequently shocks when it comes to finding authentic regional cuisine of our southern neighbor. It was thus no surprise as to why we had assiduously avoided a smallish place on Seventh Avenue with the very gringo name of Trattoria Spaghetto or Ristorante Lasagna. In other words, file under: known quantity. Yet when a renowned member of the political chattering classes suggested on a snowy evening that the food and atmosphere at Salsa Y Salsa were worthy of our attention, we relented. We'd first enjoyed some holiday cheer at nearby Dusk, and it seemed a late-night dinner was in order. For the past 15 years, our friends from Puebla and Michoacán have populated the kitchens of every type of restaurant imaginable, ranging from French patisseries to Ethiopian restaurants such as Midtown's Queen of Sheba. Consequently, their masterful abilities to delight with both standard American crowd-pleasers as well as global dishes such as Pad Thai has resulted in a fascinating fusion of eclectic cocina. The usual staples of American Mexican restaurants—Guacamole en Molcajete, nicely mashed with chunks of tomato and onion; Chile Rellenos, stuffed with three cheeses; Pollo con Mole Negro, with a nice Oaxaqueno mole—can all be found here, along with some more exotic dishes such as Patos en Mole Tamarindo (duck in tamarind mole) and Huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper with cornmeal tomato sauce). You'll also find a number of unusual margaritas, such as cactus pear. Our friend the politico, a vegetarian with a rather complex palate, decided on Fajitas, but with a Southeast Asian flair. Here's where creativity comes into play: the charming hostess offered to run next door to the Regional Thai restaurant to fetch snow peas, broccoli and a few other items, something our politico assented to with "Oh, they do this all the time. You just have to ask." Some minutes later a sizzling platter with Mexican Green Rice, Black Beans, Sweet Corn Salpicon, Pico de Gallo, Sour Cream, Warmed Tortillas, and the most exotic selection of perfectly-grilled vegetables this side of Bangkok emerged. There were beautiful rounds of squash, some perfectly cooked snow peas, and florets of broccoli—something we confess to never having seen before in a Mexican restaurant. Coming on the same day as the sad news of the closure of Jose Hurtado-Prud'homme's Greenwich Village favorite Mi Cocina, we have to admit this simple restaurant with flowery oilcloth on the tables, stencils of Hibiscus on the walls, and a few festive lights strewn here and there surprised us in rather intriguing ways. Just as you'll never know from the simple décor what complex flavors you might get in the rural Yucátan, so too does this principle apparently hold in the biggest city of El Norte.

Tags: comida yucateca, dusk, mole poblano, puebla, salsa y salsa

Holiday Pick: Prix Fixe Meals at Jean-Georges Vongerichten's Restaurants

2008-12-11T09:42:43-05:00

Believe it: $24 prix fixe lunches and $35 dinners at all of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurants. JGV has posted the following note:

I've created my restaurants to be places that offer a gracious welcome, that pamper our guests with delicious food and friendly service. And now I want to extend more generosity to my fellow New Yorkers. I'm offering prix-fixe lunch for $24 and prix-fixe dinner for $35 at my restaurants in the city. The best deal, by far, is at Matsugen. In this mini-omakase dinner menu, you get six courses, including the black cod with miso and the Kamoseiro duck soup with soba noodles. It's a deeply satisfying meal that gives you a true taste of Japan. I also love the bento box lunch because one of the four courses is the goma-dare soba, my favorite dish there. Starting today, we're going to serve a $35 dinner at Nougatine too. It's a taste of Jean Georges for a fraction of the price. (And you can enjoy the view of the Christmas lights outside the floor-to-ceiling windows.) We serve our special three-course menu before 6:30 p.m. and after 10:00 p.m., making it the ideal stop before or after a show at Lincoln Center. Perry St offers their $35 dinner menus during the same hours; JoJo has the same early dinner hours and begins its late-dinner seating at 9:30 p.m. If you go to JoJo on a Sunday, you can enjoy the special prix-fixe all evening. At Vong, the $35 dinner menu is available all the time. For each of our restaurants, we've chosen the best dishes of the season, then it's up to you to choose an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. (Trust me — it's not easy. At Perry St, would you rather have the slowly cooked cod with aromatic black beans, sake, and ginger or the grilled hanger steak with smoked paprika butternut squash and caramelized Brussels sprouts? At Mercer Kitchen, would you rather start with the Endive and Frisee Salad with Blue Cheese, Pears, and Pecans or the Chestnut and Celery Root Soup with Pancetta?) While the restaurants serve the dishes unique to their styles, my signature warm molten chocolate cake is a dessert option on all of the menus. Because, as we all know, nothing can comfort you quite like chocolate.

There you have it; a tremendous holiday special available for the foreseeable future.

Tags: jean georges, jojo, matsugen, mercer kitchen, nougatine, perry st, vong, vongerichten

Holiday Pick: New Year's Eve Dinner Cruise

2008-12-04T15:48:22-05:00

What to do on December 31st with that special someone? Celebrate the New Year in New York aboard a luxury yacht. Right around this time of year I receive dozens of inquiries about what sort of special dining experience can be combined with an unusually memorable event, and this assuredly is my top choice. Thus, why not ring in 2009 with an absolutely unforgettable experience? Enjoy fantastic views of the New York skyline as you cruise the harbor, and front-row seats to the World Famous Grucci Fireworks display at the Statue of Liberty. This elegant three-hour cruise around New York harbor features a sumptuous five-course dinner, hors d'oeuvres, champagne toast, premium open bar, party favors and great music from the DJ to dance the night away. Board at 9pm from the West 41st Street Marina, set sail at 10pm, and you'll return in 2009 around 1 am—a dockside party continues until 1:30am. Remember to book now as this cruise is extremely popular and has limited space. Do take note: Jeans, shorts and sneakers are not permitted at any time. Gentlemen: jackets are required for dinner.

Tags: cruise, holiday pick, new years eve

Thanksgiving at David Bouley's Secession Restaurant

2008-11-24T21:05:58-05:00

Another intriguing Thanksgiving option would be Chef David Bouley's three-course prix fixe menu for $75 at Secession: Appetizers Wild Mushroom Terrine with Mascarpone Dressing or Chatham Calamari a la Plancha with Ocean Herbal Broth or Hass Avocado, Princess Crab, Tomato Coulis and Tarragon Dressing Entrees Organic Pennsylvania Turkey, Pumpkin and Squash Purée, Cranberry Chutney and Roasted Brussels Sprouts or Organic Rack of Lamb, Fingerling Potato Purée and Glazed Turnips Desserts Hot Granny Smith Apple Tart with Homemade Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream or Banana-Chocolate Brioche with Prune Armagnac Ice Cream For reservations, please call Secession at 212 791 3771 or click here.

Tags: david bouley, secession, thanksgiving

Italian Thanksgiving at Alloro

2008-11-18T09:26:18-05:00

You might consider something ambitious and intriguing this Thanksgiving, an Italian feast at Alloro. The background: Gina Corea, lured her husband and business partner Chef Salvatore Corea from his hometown in Italy to her hometown in New York. While Chef Salvatore has opened other New York City restaurants and currently owns Cacio e Pepe, he recently opened Alloro with Gina, thus fulfilling his dream of opening an old-fashioned, family-run restaurant. On this Thanksgiving, Gina and Salvatore will be serving an Italian inspired feast from 1:30pm - 9:30pm. Prix Fixe Menu - $40 per person Polpettine di tacchino con salsa di vitello e salvia fritta Turkey meat balls in veal sauce with fried sage * * * Ravioli di zucca con fonduta di parmigiano e caramello al vino rosso Pumpkin ravioli over a Parmesan fondue and red wine caramel * * * Tacchino ripieno alle prugne con salsa di zucca, tortino di melanzane e cioccolato e polvere di liquirizia Turkey stuffed with prunes in a pumpkin sauce served with an eggplant and chocolate tart and licorice powder * * * Tiramisùdi zucca con salsa di pesca Pumpkin tiramisu in peach sauce Chef Salvatore has graciously shared his pumpkin ravioli recipe with us, and it is a wonderful autumn dish—whether served as a side dish at your Thanksgiving table or as a main course: PUMPKIN RAVIOLI IN A PARMESEAN FONDUE WITH A RED WINE REDUCTION Serves: 4 1 lb. pumpkin ravioli—can be purchased at specialty food shops or made at home. 1 pint heavy whipping cream 1/4 lb. grated Parmesan cheese 1 bottle dry red wine (not cooking wine) 3/4 cup white sugar Put 4 quarts of water in a pot on high heat, cover, and bring to a boil. For the Parmesan Fondue: Over medium heat, melt cheese and whipping cream together into a creamy mixture, stirring continually for about 5 minutes. While still hot, using a wire strainer, drain mixture into a sauté pan and set aside. For the Red Wine Reduction: In large sauté pan, reduce wine and sugar over medium heat until it becomes syrupy, stirring continually for about 10 minutes. Meanwhile, place ravioli in boiling water until they float to top of water; do not overcook. Drain. Coat the ravioli in Parmesan Fondue. Plate ravioli and top with a splash of the red wine reduction. photograph: Pumpkin Ravioli à la Chef Salvatore Corea

Tags: alloro, pumpkin ravioli, salvatore corea, thanksgiving

Dining Review: Picholine

2008-10-15T13:34:21-04:00

One of the thrills of this business—particularly in times of recession—is returning to an old favorite to see how a business fares. Some months ago, we rejoiced in the news that Picholine was offering $50 gift cards in honor of its 15th anniversary. This seemed to be yet another of Terrance Brennan's clever marketing strategies; rather than announce what effectively becomes a 10% off dinner for two, Brennan instead gains valuable marketing insights into his clientele by issuing such cards. The diners, convinced of receiving a great value—and it is—happily return to the restaurant. As we had recently given too much attention to Brennan's other signature restaurant, Artisanal, we were thus pleasantly surprised to discover a nearly-full Picholine last night, and proceeded apace to order the Tasting Menu, a superb seven-course meal with wine pairings. For those who haven't visited Picholine since 2006, Brennan's renovations feature a modern design to match the Mediterranean cuisine. The wine and cheese bar, while nearly deserted last night, has a stripped-down menu that offers excellent values and clever pairings. The two main dining rooms, with 84 seats, offer intimacy and tranquility. In fact, it was more than two hours into our three-hour dinner that we for the first time espied a mobile phone; we cannot recall any experiencing in any other top-ranked restaurant in recent years so much edenic respite from the ever-trilling cell. A clever amuse of tempura oyster mushrooms on skewers inserted into a vase of wheatgrass and pink rock salt set the mood. Served with a green-hued dipping sauce and a cauliflower panna cotta and paired with a glass of Champagne, this starter evoked the end of summer, reminding us of the spectacular Columbus Day weekend weather. We quickly moved to a Hudson Valley Farms Foie Gras Torchon with pistachio crust accompanied by sweet and sour heirloom beets. There followed some exquisite Sheep Milk Ricotta Gnocchi with artichoke barigoule, bottarga and parsley pistou. Part of the joy of this modest portion was gazing upon the various colors, which of course changed as the pistou was stirred into the gnocchi and ultra-thin shavings of vegetables. There followed a succulent portion of Nantucket Sea Scallops with cauliflower silk, crumble and grapefruit grenobloise, an intriguing blend of textures of flavors. Having up to this point consumed solely white wines—including an impressively splendid Quarts de Chaume, a charming Loire, and a crisp Alsatian from Marcel Deiss—we politely balked at being served a Chardonnay with the next course, and instead received a solid and refreshing Italian pinot noir from Piemonte to accompany the Roasted John Dory with salsify textures and mushroom "cappuccino". The foam into which we dipped bites of the John Dory was truly memorable. How to describe the next course? Jamison Farm Lamb with tomato tarte tatin, fennel and arugula pesto was truly divine, small bites of tender lamb matched to an impressive Zinfandel. Though a modestly effervescent dessert wine did not stand up to the various cheeses we selected that ranged from the hard Swiss mountain Hoch-Ybrig to the sheep's milk Berkswell from England to the blissfully unctuous Stanser Fladä, we were pleased with the accompanying chutney and medjool dates. While the fabled cheese service seems no longer as elegant nor innovative as we jaded folk remember, we do take great pleasure that each diner still receives The Cheeses of Picholine brochure to take home and admire, with his/her selections marked as an aide-memoire. The Warm Caramel Apple Brioche with apple salad and salted caramel ice cream matched both mood and season whereas the outstanding Liquid Chocolate “Tart” with Earl Grey Meringue and Confiture de Lait Sorbet was out of this world. We were surprised by an additional dessert that arrived with a marzipan tablet engraved "congratulations"; our ever-alert captain "thought I had overheard something was being celebrated" and accordingly took action. While the congratulatory remark concerned a modest bi-weekly foreign-language quiz at Columbia University, we were of course reminded at how Picholine continuously manages to dazzle the clientele through gracious gestures, by allowing substitutions and by meeting the discerning guest's every need.

Tags: artisanal, picholine, terrance brennan

Sneak Preview of JFK Terminal Five Restaurants

2008-09-22T18:04:25-04:00

Mayor Bloomberg welcomed hundreds of invited guests and JetBlue staff to the new Terminal 5 at JFK this afternoon, and our primary interest was to examine all these new restaurants and innovative dining options that make Terminal 5 the United States' most advanced airline terminal for dining: We wanted to have a quick chat with the star chefs prior to the hundreds of people arriving for tastings, and we first caught up with Alexandra Raij of Piquillo; Lee Hanson of Brasserie La Vie; and Roberto Santibañez of Revolucion: Prior to showing you photographs of these forthcoming restaurants, we want to underscore the properties are not yet completed. Thus, you will see additional tweaks and furnishings when the terminal opens in October. Now on to the food. Obviously you would expect a superior Spanish ham from Piquillo: Chef Hanson of La Vie has a really attractive Brasserie: Chef Santibañez of Revolucion had Mexican specialties prepared: JetBlue fans already know Deep Blue Sushi from Terminal 6. Deep Blue also has a number of packaged grab-and-go sushi and noodle dishes for sale adjacent to the restaurant: Don't miss the innovative trattoria Aeronuova from well-known Del Posto chef Mark Ladner: We were impressed with the 51 tv screens and 48 beers on tap at New York Sports Grill: At this point, we know you really want to see how the Re:Vive experience works—ordering food right at your gate. You'll find a number of terminals and pleasant countertops with seating for your delivery meal: Sandwich, anyone? Are you additionally drooling over all those power outlets at your countertop? Here's how it works—just touch what interests you: Let's try the Artisanal Cheese Plate: Seems we'll be getting gorgonzola, aged cheddar, Danish brie with spice nuts and grilled flat bread. Also the beer suggestion seems quite appropriate: Though we would prefer a Sam Adams to the Heineken Light, and it's no problem to order it: And it seems our order will be delivered in just 12 minutes: Do we want to tip 15% for that delivery or 20%? There's our total—and we'll just swipe our test credit card into the terminal: The terminal offers other food options in smaller stores such as the Cibo Express: Not to mention numerous shopping possibilities, including one of our favorites, Muji: Finally the hundreds of eager guests and JetBlue employees were admitted: So it was time for us to depart via antique TWA aircraft: Just kidding—we wanted you to see the completely brand-new baggage claim prior to our departure: We had a Leo DeCaprio moment on our way out, staring as we did at the old TWA Terminal: Our thanks to OTG Management, JetBlue, Dan Klores Communications—and the all participating star chefs who await you in October. All photographs copyright © NYC.com.

Tags: aeronuova, alexandra raij, brasserie la vie, deep blue sushi, jetblue, lee hanson, mark ladner, mayor bloomberg, muji, new york sports grill, piquillo, revive, revolucion, roberto santibanez, terminal 5, twa

Mixology Review: Apotheke

2008-09-22T10:42:30-04:00

While attending the Vintner's Harvest last week, our colleague reminded us that "Absinthe make the heart grow fonder." Thus, we headed down to Doyers street this past weekend to investigate the why the lao wei are all aflutter over Chinatown's newest cocktail den, one that has created possibly the most buzz south of Canal Street since Cab Calloway's Smokey Joe took Minnie the Moocher down to "kick the gong" in Chinatown. Star chef Eric Ripert was walking out as we entered, and we joked about the economy, that we soon would all become sharecroppers on vegetable farms. But I digress. In truth, Austrian-born Albert Trummer has hit all the right notes with his Apotheke, perhaps the natural evolution and vast improvement on the former Barmacy theme that proved so successful on East 14th Street. Think mad scientist meets mixologist meets opium dispensary, full of fancy laboratory gear to emphasize the medicinal qualities of Trummer's nine types of cocktails: Health and Beauty Stress Relievers Pain Killers Stimulants Aphrodisiacs Pharmaceuticals Euphoric Enhancers Therapeutic Treatments House Remedies With "over 250 house cocktails and 500 bottles of liquor from around the world," this is indeed impressive. Just bear in mind that unfortunately today's Absinthe likely won't make you insane, though perhaps the price of cocktails here might. Nevertheless, at roughly $15 each we find the cocktails a fair value as their ingredients are carefully sourced, and mixing the various decoctions and concotions is done with great art and skill. Our favorite recipes are for the James Bond as well as a few we invented on the fly—we asked our mixologist to create one drink including three kinds of ginger, one drink using two kinds of anise and fennel, and another one we simply declared should be the "Chinatown Special". They were all superb. After enjoying about a dozen marvelous creations, we finally called it quits. Our advice: do not hesitate to simply declare what ingredients/flavors you might like in your drinks. Before you become completely blotto, however, do ensure you stumble around Doyers Street, the crookedest street in Manhattan. Over one hundred years ago in 1907, the New York Times reported that "In all New York City, there is not a more disreputable street than Pell Street nor a more forbidding cow-path than Doyers Street." Together, these lanes were "cesspools of immorality vile enough to bring a curse upon the entire community."

Tags: absinthe, albert trummer, apotheke, doyers st

Notes From the 19th Annual Vintners' Harvest

2008-09-18T14:20:51-04:00

The death of New York State wine legend Mark Miller last week at age 89 cast a shadow over the 19th Annual Vintners' Harvest New York City as well as yesterday's Edible Manhattan launch party featuring several Long Island vintners. Miller received the first winery license in this state, and the remarkable success of today's Finger Lakes, Hudson Valley and Long Island growers would not be possible without his decades-long perseverance. Thus we greeted an old friend, Roman Roth, who had us sample some splendid wines from Wölffer of Long Island's North Fork as well as his private-label Grapes of Roth. Roth reminded us of his 91 and 92 scores awarded by Robert Parker for his 2001 and 2002 Grapes of Roth Merlot. We've been big fans of Wölffer for years, some of which you can pick up at Vintage New York in SoHo. We took a detour from Long Island by way of Niigata, Japan, to sample some extraordinary sake selections from Ichishima Sake Brewery. Thanks to the tremendous efforts of devoted sake importer Michael John Simkin, we tasted the Ichishima Brewery's Daiginjo, Honjozo and Silk Deluxe Junmai. Mr. Simkin reminds us sake can be expertly paired with a number of types of cuisine, and his event at TriBeCa's Thalassa this past June, Sake meets the Mediterranean proved exactly that. We returned from Japan by way of Sonoma, California's Dry Creek Valley. Stopping first to sample two splendid varietals from Michel Schlumberger, we first enjoyed a Cabernet Sauvignon blend aged 16 months in French oak, followed by a splendid Syrah. This Cab consists of 80% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, 4% Merlot, 5% Malbec, and 1% Carmenere. On to Napa, we enjoyed the Cloud View 2005 from Pritchard Hill, a blend of 58% Cabernet Sauvignon and 42% Merlot. This retails for around $65 in New York. On to Europe, we focused on lesser-known German and Austrian wines, sampling a number of wines of which the Gesellmann 2006 Blaufränkisch with its marked bouquet and intense flavor stood out the most. A crisp Riesling we tasted from Kespelher Wine Shippers stood out, but the true gem was the 2007 Kreuznacher Kronenberg Riesling Auslese from Nahe, imported by Boston Wine Co Ltd. Our journey continued to the Caribbean. If what you typically drink for rum emanates from the island of Puerto Rico, nudge your mental map south-southeast to the one of the tinier islands in the Caribbean, the island of Martinique, and taste fermented sugarcane like you've never had before, Rhum J.M. This marvelous brand of rum is made from sugarcane stalks grown on 28-degree vertical slopes in rich volcanic soil at the foot of Mount Pelée in the northern part of this sunny French territorial island. Harvested by hand the sugarcane grown here is transported down the mountain and distilled at the smallest estate property on Martinique. Rhum J.M. comes in four distinct colors and flavors, the clear white being the strongest with 50% alcohol and a fresh sweet tropical fruit aroma. It is so smooth, there's really no need to mix it at all. You can pour it over a couple ice cubes and sip it like it's fine scotch. The gold version is aged for a minimum of twelve months in small Limousine barrels and bears hints of chocolate and Martinique spices on the palate. Next in line is a J.M. blend of four and five year-old rums that have a coppery amber color with a dashes of cinnamon, nutmeg, and caramel, and an intense creamy finish. Last but not least is the company's cask strength rum, which has darker amber color, a rich, nutty, creamy taste with a velvety long, lingering finish. We also sampled Plantation Rum from the house of Cognac Ferrand, which features a number of barrel-aged rums including the Guyana 1990, Venezuela 1992, Trinidad 1993 and Barbados 1993. Heading back to California, with a slightly thickened tongue, we caught up with Absinthe. The obvious turn of phrase for this banished spirit by Hangar One in northern California might be "Absinthe make the heart grow fonder." Indeed, the terrible beauty is back, but this time she's no illegal immigrant, but a fully government-approved brand that is now distilled and available in the US market due to a relaxation of the US ban at the end of 2007 by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau (TTB). In order to pass TTB testing, the Hangar One rep explained, a product must be measured to have less than 10 parts per milliliter of thujone, the active ingredient long believed to have been the reason for absinthe's purported hallucinogenic effects. While you might try any number of Absinthe concoctions at the recently-opened Apotheke on Doyers Street, we for now might stick to Hangar One's brilliantly-distilled vodkas, the brainchild of Jorg Rupf, which contain fascinating botanicals ranging from citron Buddha's Hand to Kaffir Lime. Also from the Bay Area, we sampled the marvelous Junipero Gin from Anchor Distilling, better known for its top-notch Anchor beers. It seemed quite fitting we jumped around from place to place and from wine to spirits; we hope Mark Miller would have approved.

Tags: anchor distilling, Cloud View 2005, edible manhattan, Gesellmann, Hangar One, hudson valley, Ichishima Sake Brewery, long island, mark miller, Michel Schlumberger, Plantation Rum, rhum jm, roman roth, vintage new york, wolffer

Introducing Edible Manhattan

2008-09-15T12:20:09-04:00

We greeted the long-awaited release of the first issue of Edible Manhattan with great joy, for this handsome magazine reveals many of the food world's best-kept secrets: who grows great local produce, where to find top-quality ingredients, how to source terrific foods, and what trends are up-and-coming. Given that this publication springs in part from some of the great minds at the French Culinary Institute, we were naturally curious to see what sort of topics would be covered in the premiere issue:
Real Wasabi
Heirloom Tomatoes
Breakfast Sandwiches and Sticky Buns
Kitchen Arts & Letters
The Pickle Festival
In the Kitchen with Isaac Mizrahi
Little Giant
Wölffer Estate Wines
Mark Isreal's Doughnut Plant
Plus a dozen other terrific stories, including a lengthy article on New York City's superior tap water and solid information about New York State wines, can be found in this issue. With a cover price of $7.00 and a subscription price of just $35 annually, Edible Manhattan clearly captures the growing trend for local ingredients, growers, and the businesses that celebrate New York's astounding food culture.

Tags: doughnut plant, edible manhattan, french culinary institute, isaac mizrahi, little giant