January 31, 2007
Navarra is the most intriguing region of Spain you've likely never heard of, bordered by France to the north, Rioja to the south, Aragon to the east, and Basque country to the west. Close to both Bordeaux and Bilbao, one-third of its population lives in the capital, Pamplona, which swells annually during the famous running of the bulls. Given its diverse landscape—which mirrors that of larger Spain—this tiny territory that covers only 60 miles from north to south and represents less than 1.5% of Spain's population produces some intriguing wines, splendid dishes, and clearly distinguished chefs. Though Navarra has in recent decades had difficulty competing with neighboring Rioja, the famous Guía Peñin guide to Spanish wine as well as various websites and blogs can assist with planning your tastings.
Although the rich history of the Kingdom of Pamplona, later the Kingdom of Navarra, extends back to pre-Roman times, perhaps its dreamy Renaissance setting became best known to the Anglo-Saxon world through Shakespeare's Love's Labor's Lost, whose pedantic humor also includes what was once thought to be the longest word in English (even though it is Latinate), honorificabilitudinitatibus, perhaps meaning "the state of being able to achieve honors." So it is with Navarra's wines and cuisine. Because with the profusion of tapas restaurants in Manhattan, you will soon enough become acquainted with its wonderful wines, which for now still remain a well-kept secret. Fortunately the expert sommelier from the Navarra school of wine tasting, Ana Laguna, along with Robin Kelley O'Connor, president of the Society of Wine Educators, hosted a terrific wine tasting yesterday morning in the run-up to the evening gala dinner prepared by Chef Nicolás J. Ramirez, chef-owner of Túbal Restaurant in Tafalla.
Given Navarra's significance as an emerging export region—Ana Laguna accurately declares the region is "just getting on the radar"—I must state that for a 10:30 am tasting on a Tuesday, the event was quite well-attended, with around 40 wine educators and industry representatives in attendance. With a number of exciting Bodegas, Navarra has a fascinating wine tradition, thusly earning the kingdom its moniker of "land of diversity." Given its position as a pilgrimage route since the Middle Ages, perhaps modern-day wine pilgrims will also flock to Pamplona, whose famous cathedral's keystone curiously features an image of a wine cask. Although Spain remains the world's third-largest wine producer, only 2% of Spain's vineyards (roughly 25,000 hectares) are found in Navarra. The extreme climatic differences and enormous diversity of grapes seem ideal for viticulture, with its wide range of soils from the rain-soaked north to the more arid desert of the south. While it is difficult to generalize about Navarran wines—and while some splendid Chardonnay and quite interesting Merlot can be found—we fortuitously tasted several less common varietals and blends. Think: Tempranillo, Garnacha, and Graciano as well as intriguing Muscat.
Although Navarra's main varietal is the Tempranillo, the quality of product can be challenging to regulate, and less yield of this delicate grape seems to indicate better results. The Garnacha has vastly underestimated potential, and Laguna rightly declares it has been "unjustifiably forgotten." We sampled the Garnacha de Viñas Viejas 2005 from Bodegas Príncipe de Viana, which had a nicely enhanced and clean flavor of oak, terrific structure and probably the most complex and splendid example of the Garnacha. Also fascinating and richly structured was José Manuel Echeverria's 21 del 10, 2004. Named after the birth date of his young daughter, this marvelous blend from Bodegas y Viñedos Alzania was an experimental wine whose appellation is not yet allowed. Some curious legal issues—the discussion of which I'll omit here—center on changing legislation and E.U. regulations, causing a fair number of traditional and modern winemakers in Navarra to simply do as they wish, which in any case they have historically always done. (Long story short, we may yet see an upper echelon V. de Pago from Navarra in the future.) Aged 12 months in French oak barrels, the 21 del 10, 2004 underscores how clearly different Echeverria's style is, and this terrific balance of flavors with a deep velvety appearance and hint of toasted spice yielded a really splendid composition, savory and complex. Any wonders about food pairings and the superb flavors of the region were immediately addressed with some tapas prepared by Chef Ramirez. The above two wines were terrific with Navarran specialities of white asparagus; quail egg and Piquillo pepper on garlic toast; and a flavorful langostino. Do take note that until your favorite tapas place carries Navarran wines, you might check with the US agent for Navarran wines, Classic Wines of Stamford, CT.
An afternoon tasting then led to Chef Ramirez's special evening dinner, which was truly memorable for a number of reasons. Co-sponsored with the American Institute of Wine & Food, the dinner at the W New York Union Square was a wonderful opportunity to bring foodies, wine lovers and vinters together during Navarra Gastronomic Week. The chef's Warm Partridge & Jabugo Ham Salad represented a subtle and harmonious marriage of diverse flavors, paired with a fruity Orquídea 2006 from Bodega Inurrieta. Artichokes Fried with Tocino (Jabugo cured ham), Mushrooms, Lobster, Wild Mushroom Jus and Toasted Almonds was superb and the presentation equally impressive. Two reds we tasted worked quite well with this dish, complimenting the distinctive piquancy: first, a 2005 blend from Bodegas Bagordi called Usoa de Bagordi Vendimia Seleccionada, indeed a selection of Tempranillo (60%), Merlot (20%), Graciano (10%) and Garnacha (10%). (You'll find Bargordi's wines at Marks & Spencer should you be in the UK any time soon.) Second, the Condado de Almara Crianza 2003 from Bodegas Macaya, a moderately-priced Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon blend.
Regional specialities of Navarra can be found in a handsome book titled Ayer y hoy de la cocina navarra (Then & Now of the Navarra Cookery), and Chef Ramirez's take on a Egg served in Croustillante Potato Crust, Piquillo Peppers and Garlic Toast was splendid, with this delicately poached egg uniting the other well-matched elements. Ana Laguna paired this well with a 2003 Deyo, a nice Merlot from Castillo de Monjardin whose estate lies close to the French border along the famous pilgrimage route from Paris to Santiago de Compostela. Monjardin has an intriguing microclimate, unusual even in Navarre's diverse terrain. Our next course was an even more outstanding blend of traditional Navarran flavors, Veal Cheeks with Potato Cream & Honeyed Crispy Pig Trotters. This dish alone would make you want to travel to Navarra, and was expertly matched with a 2003 Emegente Selección from Bodegas Marques de Montecierzo. There followed a cheese course, a reminder that in addition to Roncal and Idiazabal, Navarra has sheep specific to the region that produce fine, full-flavored hard and semi-hard cheeses.
Finally I must mention a very special dessert wine from Viña Arbel, the 2005 Laudate Dominum, with a crisp, clean and marvelously complex flavor deriving from the small Muscat berries. (Take note: their US agent is Sabor Imports in Southern California.) Having sampled in recent years a full range of Muscat, Trockenbeerenauslese, and Sauternes ranging from 1975 Château d'Yquem to Finger Lakes ice wines, I think this young firm holds exceptional promise. Chef Ramirez created a delightful Torrija caramelizada con sopa del niño, helado de leche y burbujas de canela (Caramelised milk-soaked Bread, “Del Niño” Soup, Milk Ice-Cream and Cinnamon Bubbles) to end this wonderful event. You too might become an honorificabilitudinitatibus if you focus on these wines and keep in mind that Navarre is not just about bull-running in Pamplona.
Tags:
aiwf, Ana Laguna, Jose Manuel Echeverria, navarra, Nicolas Ramirez, Tubal
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Posted on 1/31/2007
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