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Once again old world met new last night with the splendid products of Northern Italy featured at a Seminario Del Gusto, or tasting dinner, hosted by Francesco Bettoni, president of Confagricoltura Lombardia at the Flatiron District's Bar Stuzzichini. With four courses prepared by Chef Paul Di Bari, some intriguing D.O.C. wines from Franciacorta and Oltrepo'Pavese were presented by noted wine expert David Lynch.
Obviously no Lombardy event would be possible without enormous wheels of Grana Padano, which was served with Crostini di Bresaola and a refreshing Cá del Bosco Franciacorta DOCG Brut NV. With 75% Chardonnay grapes, this Cá del Bosco has undergone a dramatic transformation, perhaps due in large part to its repackaging as well as the rebranding of its distributor over a year ago from Paterno to Terlato Wines International. The Cá del Bosco is well-paired with summer appetizers such as Bruschetta con Crema di Ceci (chickpea cream) or a heavy grilled polenta with melted DOP Gorgonzola. (More on the Gorgonzola later.) Here we spotted our old friend Lou of Di Palo Fine Foods, a tireless champion of Italian products and a stalwart presence in Little Italy. Lou informs us he will be expanding his store and feature Italian wines in a brand-new shop next door later this summer.
A first course of Risotto di Carnaroli DOP with Zucchini Flowers reminded us that the Pinot noir of Italy, much of which is unavailable in the United States, deserves closer attention. Lynch noted that 4000 hectares of Pinot noir can be found in Italy, and the Oltrepo'Pavese, approximately 30 miles south of Milan, is the third most productive DOC in Italy. Lynch does not exaggerate when he calls the Oltrepo'Pavese "one of the best Pinot noirs in Italy"; they have been a major player in the United States for quite some time, underscored by the fact that their export number is 19. This Frecciarossa Oltrepo'Pavese DOC Pinot Noir "Giorgio Odero" 2005 had a good body and enticing bouquet. More impressive was the Vercesi Castellazzo Oltrepo'Pavese DOC Barbera "Clá" 2005, an excellent accompaniment to a somewhat rubbery Veal Involtini stuffed with DOP Provolone and simmered in DOC Franciacorta Wine. More unusual for the jaded New York crowd was a white Pinot Noir paired with a rather impossible cheese platter of Gorgonzola, Taleggio and Grana Padano drizzled with honey. Lynch answered a concern as to how this Pinot noir could be white, reminding the fascinated oenophile that any wine can be white if you vinify it off its skins. Indeed, it matched the two soft cheese nicely, but did not stand up to the 12-month-old Grana Padano. You can sample these cheeses today from noon to 4 pm at DiPalo as well as Fairway on the Upper West Side.
Finally, a Panna Cotta with a Salsa di Fruitti di Bosco (wild fruit sauce) rounded out the evening's program, matched with a Bonarda in the vivace style, a sparkling Vercesi del Castellazzo Oltrepo'Pavese DOC "luogo della Milla" 2006 that brought back many warm and boozy summer nights in the Ticino, with local wines that weren't necessarily eminently drinkable but nevertheless enjoyable.
Tags:
bar stuzzichini, di palo fine foods, fairway
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Posted on 7/1/2008
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