For the discriminating palate that enjoys the myriad flavors of Mexico ranging from the fulfilling Comida Yucateca to the complex Mole Poblano, New York frequently shocks when it comes to finding authentic regional cuisine of our southern neighbor. It was thus no surprise as to why we had assiduously avoided a smallish place on Seventh Avenue with the very gringo name of Trattoria Spaghetto or Ristorante Lasagna. In other words, file under: known quantity. Yet when a renowned member of the political chattering classes suggested on a snowy evening that the food and atmosphere at Salsa Y Salsa were worthy of our attention, we relented. We'd first enjoyed some holiday cheer at nearby Dusk, and it seemed a late-night dinner was in order.
For the past 15 years, our friends from Puebla and Michoacán have populated the kitchens of every type of restaurant imaginable, ranging from French patisseries to Ethiopian restaurants such as Midtown's Queen of Sheba. Consequently, their masterful abilities to delight with both standard American crowd-pleasers as well as global dishes such as Pad Thai has resulted in a fascinating fusion of eclectic cocina. The usual staples of American Mexican restaurants—Guacamole en Molcajete, nicely mashed with chunks of tomato and onion; Chile Rellenos, stuffed with three cheeses; Pollo con Mole Negro, with a nice Oaxaqueno mole—can all be found here, along with some more exotic dishes such as Patos en Mole Tamarindo (duck in tamarind mole) and Huachinango a la Veracruzana (red snapper with cornmeal tomato sauce). You'll also find a number of unusual margaritas, such as cactus pear. Our friend the politico, a vegetarian with a rather complex palate, decided on Fajitas, but with a Southeast Asian flair. Here's where creativity comes into play: the charming hostess offered to run next door to the Regional Thai restaurant to fetch snow peas, broccoli and a few other items, something our politico assented to with "Oh, they do this all the time. You just have to ask." Some minutes later a sizzling platter with Mexican Green Rice, Black Beans, Sweet Corn Salpicon, Pico de Gallo, Sour Cream, Warmed Tortillas, and the most exotic selection of perfectly-grilled vegetables this side of Bangkok emerged. There were beautiful rounds of squash, some perfectly cooked snow peas, and florets of broccoli—something we confess to never having seen before in a Mexican restaurant.
Coming on the same day as the sad news of the closure of Jose Hurtado-Prud'homme's Greenwich Village favorite Mi Cocina, we have to admit this simple restaurant with flowery oilcloth on the tables, stencils of Hibiscus on the walls, and a few festive lights strewn here and there surprised us in rather intriguing ways. Just as you'll never know from the simple décor what complex flavors you might get in the rural Yucátan, so too does this principle apparently hold in the biggest city of El Norte.
Tags:
comida yucateca, dusk, mole poblano, puebla, salsa y salsa
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Posted 23 days ago
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Believe it: $24 prix fixe lunches and $35 dinners at all of Jean-Georges Vongerichten's restaurants. JGV has posted the following note: I've created my restaurants to be places that offer a gracious welcome, that pamper our guests with delicious food and friendly service. And now I want to extend more generosity to my fellow New Yorkers. I'm offering prix-fixe lunch for $24 and prix-fixe dinner for $35 at my restaurants in the city. The best deal, by far, is at Matsugen. In this mini-omakase dinner menu, you get six courses, including the black cod with miso and the Kamoseiro duck soup with soba noodles. It's a deeply satisfying meal that gives you a true taste of Japan. I also love the bento box lunch because one of the four courses is the goma-dare soba, my favorite dish there. Starting today, we're going to serve a $35 dinner at Nougatine too. It's a taste of Jean Georges for a fraction of the price. (And you can enjoy the view of the Christmas lights outside the floor-to-ceiling windows.) We serve our special three-course menu before 6:30 p.m. and after 10:00 p.m., making it the ideal stop before or after a show at Lincoln Center. Perry St offers their $35 dinner menus during the same hours; JoJo has the same early dinner hours and begins its late-dinner seating at 9:30 p.m. If you go to JoJo on a Sunday, you can enjoy the special prix-fixe all evening. At Vong, the $35 dinner menu is available all the time. For each of our restaurants, we've chosen the best dishes of the season, then it's up to you to choose an appetizer, entrée, and dessert. (Trust me — it's not easy. At Perry St, would you rather have the slowly cooked cod with aromatic black beans, sake, and ginger or the grilled hanger steak with smoked paprika butternut squash and caramelized Brussels sprouts? At Mercer Kitchen, would you rather start with the Endive and Frisee Salad with Blue Cheese, Pears, and Pecans or the Chestnut and Celery Root Soup with Pancetta?) While the restaurants serve the dishes unique to their styles, my signature warm molten chocolate cake is a dessert option on all of the menus. Because, as we all know, nothing can comfort you quite like chocolate. There you have it; a tremendous holiday special available for the foreseeable future.
Tags:
jean georges, jojo, matsugen, mercer kitchen, nougatine, perry st, vong, vongerichten
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Posted 29 days ago
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What to do on December 31st with that special someone? Celebrate the New Year in New York aboard a luxury yacht. Right around this time of year I receive dozens of inquiries about what sort of special dining experience can be combined with an unusually memorable event, and this assuredly is my top choice.
Thus, why not ring in 2009 with an absolutely unforgettable experience? Enjoy fantastic views of the New York skyline as you cruise the harbor, and front-row seats to the World Famous Grucci Fireworks display at the Statue of Liberty. This elegant three-hour cruise around New York harbor features a sumptuous five-course dinner, hors d'oeuvres, champagne toast, premium open bar, party favors and great music from the DJ to dance the night away.
Board at 9pm from the West 41st Street Marina, set sail at 10pm, and you'll return in 2009 around 1 am—a dockside party continues until 1:30am.
Remember to book now as this cruise is extremely popular and has limited space.
Do take note: Jeans, shorts and sneakers are not permitted at any time. Gentlemen: jackets are required for dinner.
Tags:
cruise, holiday pick, new years eve
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Posted 36 days ago
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Another intriguing Thanksgiving option would be Chef David Bouley's three-course prix fixe menu for $75 at Secession:
Appetizers
Wild Mushroom Terrine with Mascarpone Dressing
or
Chatham Calamari a la Plancha with Ocean Herbal Broth
or
Hass Avocado, Princess Crab, Tomato Coulis and Tarragon Dressing
Entrees
Organic Pennsylvania Turkey, Pumpkin and Squash Purée, Cranberry Chutney and Roasted Brussels Sprouts
or
Organic Rack of Lamb, Fingerling Potato Purée and Glazed Turnips
Desserts
Hot Granny Smith Apple Tart with Homemade Tahitian Vanilla Ice Cream
or
Banana-Chocolate Brioche with Prune Armagnac Ice Cream
For reservations, please call Secession at 212 791 3771 or click here.
Tags:
david bouley, secession, thanksgiving
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Posted 46 days ago
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You might consider something ambitious and intriguing this Thanksgiving, an Italian feast at Alloro. The background: Gina Corea, lured her husband and business partner Chef Salvatore Corea from his hometown in Italy to her hometown in New York. While Chef Salvatore has opened other New York City restaurants and currently owns Cacio e Pepe, he recently opened Alloro with Gina, thus fulfilling his dream of opening an old-fashioned, family-run restaurant.
On this Thanksgiving, Gina and Salvatore will be serving an Italian inspired feast from 1:30pm - 9:30pm.
Prix Fixe Menu - $40 per person
Polpettine di tacchino con salsa di vitello e salvia fritta
Turkey meat balls in veal sauce with fried sage
* * *
Ravioli di zucca con fonduta di parmigiano e caramello al vino rosso
Pumpkin ravioli over a Parmesan fondue and red wine caramel
* * *
Tacchino ripieno alle prugne con salsa di zucca,
tortino di melanzane e cioccolato e polvere di liquirizia
Turkey stuffed with prunes in a pumpkin sauce
served with an eggplant and chocolate tart and licorice powder
* * *
Tiramisùdi zucca con salsa di pesca
Pumpkin tiramisu in peach sauce
Chef Salvatore has graciously shared his pumpkin ravioli recipe with us, and it is a wonderful autumn dish—whether served as a side dish at your Thanksgiving table or as a main course:
PUMPKIN RAVIOLI IN A PARMESEAN FONDUE WITH A RED WINE REDUCTION
Serves: 4
1 lb. pumpkin ravioli—can be purchased at specialty food shops or made at home.
1 pint heavy whipping cream
1/4 lb. grated Parmesan cheese
1 bottle dry red wine (not cooking wine)
3/4 cup white sugar
Put 4 quarts of water in a pot on high heat, cover, and bring to a boil.
For the Parmesan Fondue:
Over medium heat, melt cheese and whipping cream together into a creamy mixture, stirring continually for about 5 minutes. While still hot, using a wire strainer, drain mixture into a sauté pan and set aside.
For the Red Wine Reduction:
In large sauté pan, reduce wine and sugar over medium heat until it becomes syrupy, stirring continually for about 10 minutes.
Meanwhile, place ravioli in boiling water until they float to top of water; do not overcook. Drain. Coat the ravioli in Parmesan Fondue. Plate ravioli and top with a splash of the red wine reduction.
photograph: Pumpkin Ravioli à la Chef Salvatore Corea
Tags:
alloro, pumpkin ravioli, salvatore corea, thanksgiving
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Posted 52 days ago
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