New York City Restaurant Buzz & Guide: The Restaurants, the Food and You

Salute to Rhubarb

2009-06-02T14:34:11-04:00

Salute to Rhubarb

Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) has come a long way from its original highland home in the cooler climes of eastern Asia (Mongolia and the rim of the Gobi desert), spreading east, west & worldwide.

The ancient variety was smaller, greener and tarter than the plant we know today. Now grown almost everywhere cool enough, rhubarb comes in a variety of colors, from green, to pink, to spotted, to red; some varieties, like those grown in upstate New York are ruby-red giants.

Used for thousands of years throughout China as an herbal remedy for digestive issues (the root in particular was favored), the Rhubarb plant made its way westward where it became a food product. The Romans incorporated it into their repertoire of recipes, some of which survived into the post-Roman period (for example in Hungary, where it is used in soups and stews). In other parts of Europe, the plant reverted to strictly medicinal uses. Here in the U.S., it is known mainly an ingredient for pie.

With such a long and illustrious career, how did rhubarb end up as the “pie fruit” that Americans know today?

The answer is simple: Sugar.

With the advent of cheap and readily available sweeteners, the tartness of rhubarb and other fruits could be addressed. Naturally, people thought, “Great! I’ll make a pie!”

The result is that rhubarb is most often associated with pie, and in particular, strawberry rhubarb pie.

But there is more to Rhubarb than pie. Rhubarb with its tartness and textures can be employed in vinaigrettes, chutneys, sauces, infused beverages, stews, emulsions and more.

Below are a few NYC restos serving inventive rhubarb-inspired fare:

Babbo’s - Semolina Budino with Rhubarb and Mint Marmellata (recipe available on line)

Klee – Recently at this Chelsea brasserie, I a had prawn dish with a rhubarb emulsion, as well as a rhubarb cobbler – both very, very good.

Perilla – Spring Fling (a vodka-rubarb-basil drink), Crispy Colorado Lamb Belly, with a rhubarb pickle puree (menu favorite)

Tomate Rouge – Rhubarb Bellini & a rhubarb crisp

Tags: babbo, klee, perilla, rhubarb, tomate rouge

Meet the Mixologist: Barry Johnson of Atria will pour!

2009-03-26T18:32:49-04:00

The Mixologist, or Cocktalian (depending on what lingo you speak) is the new Rock Star of the foodie world. Standing behind the bar and playing the role of Alchemist, the professional bartender is in tune with what’s new and with what people want.

After a surge of vodka-inspired bars & the ensuing flood of martinis on cocktail menus all over town, bourbon has begun to make a comeback. And so has gin.

What gives gin an edge over bourbon and other whiskeys is the actual process of distilling and aging. Gin moves at light speed; the aging process is, well, not all that long. A bourbon needs to age, to mature. But gin is a here and now spirit, the kind of live-in-the-moment beverage that suits these difficult economic times.

What gins are out there, you may ask, and why should I care?

First, gin is, in essence, a flavored vodka, generally the flavoring is what we expect: juniper. The gin of our grandmothers’ dreams is dry, almost powdery. That’s been the tradition since the British adopted it and added lime. Oh, but things have changed! Gin wears a lot of different outfits.

Why should you care? There is a lot happening with gin, with the kinds of fruits and flavors that are added to it, and with what mixologists are doing with it.

Find out more, at Atria, at the gin tasting. Meet rock star mixologist Barry Johnson and taste some of Atria’s great fare.

Saturday, April 4, 2009
6:00 PM - 7:30 PM
Atria - 13-15 West 54th Street
(bet. 5th & 6th Avenues)
$30

For more info: aiwf@beardallis.com, or visit AIWF's website.

Tags: atria, barry johnson, gin, gin event

Mac is Back! Comfort Food Crawl in Fashionable Greenpoint

2009-03-18T13:25:40-04:00

There has been a lot of chatter about comfort food over the past few years, in particular that old school favorite, Mac & Cheese. Hipster-saturated Williamsburg was serving it up back when the L Café was offering Bedford Ave’s only alternative food. It was never that great. Now, it’s a Thai-Sushi-Noodle wasteland on and just off Bedford. There are exceptions, but they ruin the flow of this piece! Over in nearby Greenpoint (10 blocks away), comfort food has taken on a more grown-up nuance, leaving behind the less-than-expertly prepared fare of the early Bedford Ave days. Still alternative but more thoughtful than their predecessors. Comfort food has put some new roots. And now, given the current chaotic state of the economy and the “ack” that many of us experience daily, Greenpoint is happy to annouce a food crawl that is bound to make us all feel a little better: The Greenpoint Mac n Cheese Crawl; This Sunday, From 4 p.m. to 8 p.m., chefs from Red Star, The Habitat, The Mark Bar, and t.b.d. Brooklyn will serve up free samples of their particular macaroni and cheese. Then at 8 p.m., the crawl will end at t.b.d. Brooklyn. Crawlers & judges (Camille Bercerra , maybe?) will determine who makes Greenpoint's best mac and cheese. Did I mention the drink specials at each restaurant? Indeed, there will be drink specials! Crawl your way into Mac n Cheese: Red Star 37 Greenpoint Avenue at West Street 718-349-0149 The Mark Bar 1025 Manhattan Avenue bet. Green and Freeman Streets 718-349-2340 The Habitat 988 Manhattan Avenue at Huron Street 718-383-5815 t.b.d. Brooklyn 244 Franklin Street bet. Freeman and Eagle Streets 718-349-6727

Tags: mac and cheese, red star, tbd brooklyn, the habitat, the mark bar

237 MORE Reasons to Have Sex (a must read)

2009-03-03T17:57:21-05:00

Not so long ago, a scientific article appeared that set the web on fire, and became known virally as “137 Reasons to have Sex” (v. Cindy Meston, co-author of “Why Humans Have Sex,” in the Archives of Sexual Behavior (Volume 36, Number 4, August 2007)

Candy sales world wide went up (so did cigarette sales, but that is a taboo topic).

Now, another publication promises to have the same effect at dessert bars all over town:

237 More Reasons To Have Sex, by Denise Duhamel and Sandy McIntosh (Otoliths, Feb 2009). This poet team honors us all with a new list poem that will be bedside reading for years to come.

In 36 pages, they give 237 more reasons, some of which will inspire you and some of which will remind you of something you once considered. Delicious, yes it is.

After devouring these pages, you will want a sweet treat. Here are some tasty suggestions for great dessert places:

ChikaLicious Dessert Bar 203 E. Tenth St, New York, NY, 10003

Kyotofu 705 Ninth Avenue, New York, NY, 10019

P*Ong Pichet Ong 150 W. Tenth St., New York, NY, 10014

Tags: 237 more reasons to have sex, denise duhamel, dessert bars, sandy mcintosh

Women Winemakers @ Fred's at Barney's New York -

2009-02-24T14:35:19-05:00

Just in time for Womens History Month, Fred's at Barney's New York announces a "Special Wine and Food Tasting with Deborah Brenner"

This is a great bargain: food & wine tasting plus a copy of the newly released book - reserve now!

Tuesday March 10, 2009 (Barney's is located at 660 Madison Ave)
6:30 pm-9:30 pm
$50.00 advance purchase
$55.00 day of event
*cost includes a copy of the book Women of the Vine

In honor of Women’s History Month, Fred’s at Barney’s New York would like you to join Deborah Brenner (author of Women of the Vine & proprietor of Women of the Vine Cellars) and award winning winemaker, Marketta Fourmeaux, at Fred’s.

The hosts will serve a selection of their award winning limited production wines for this exclusive private tasting.

Women of the Vine was elected by Wine Spectator as Critical Reading for any wine enthusiast’s library.

To order tickets, please contact:

Niki Le Bouquin
Fred’s at Barneys New York
660 Madison Avenue, 9th Floor
(212) 833- 2207
fred'scater@barneys.com

Tags: deborah brenner, freds at barneys, women of the vine

Death By Busboy

2009-02-23T17:23:47-05:00

Death by Busboy

In this economy, with so many ways to justify not going out for dinner, we can add yet another tick to the column of reasons to stay at home: The Busboy.

After more than a few recent run-ins with over-eager, over-reaching Bus-type staff, I say that some of the too-pricey restos around town should reconsider the role of the Busser (busboy, busperson, bus staffer, whatever).

Back in the days of the moochers who sat nursing a coffee or a lemonade for hours on end while the hungry waited for tables, the Busser in his role as Resto Policeman, served a useful function.

But in today’s world, it is completely unacceptable for diners to fear the Busser. There is no reason that we should have to keep on the lookout for Bussers, lest they snatch our half-full champagne flutes, our half-eaten appetizers, or other plates from us.

Recently, I found myself in a tug of war with a Busser who tried to whisk away the last 1/3 of a $35 class of wine. As soon as his hand jerked its way into my peripheral vision, I quickly held the glass down to the table by its base. He tried to grab the glass by its globe, and yanked so hard that I thought the glass might break. I said, “Leave it,” but he hovered at the table looking at me, as though I were obligated to dispose of its contents his watch. I refused and eventually he wandered off to harass someone else.

Dinner is no time for a wrestling match. And no one should have to develop a Busboy-strategy before going to dinner.

Grabby Bussers are the bane of restos that hope for an average check of $65 and up, Some operators seem to mistakenly believe that having a Server, Runner & a Busser will somehow enhance the dining experience.

But they are wrong. The Busser does not bring joy, good tidings nor anything desirable to the diner.Why do they wander the floor looking for things to grab, without looking at what's on the table, if the diners are talking, if one person has stepped away from the table?

Last week, when Ms. R called me and invited me to dinner at a resto known for its aggressive bus-boying. I refused, telling her, “I want dinner, not a game of tug-of-war.” The last time I was at that particular resto, the busser took my bread plate away just after I had buttered the bread. He did this not once but three times. Short term memory? Perhaps. But what a waste of bread.

So we chose to go to another resto not suffering busboy bane, and there we spent $170. If, on each calendar day of the year, two people decide they cannot tolerate the bussing habits at a particular resto, and if the two people spend on average $170, then said resto will lose $62K in sales annually. And what if it happens say a few more times each day? Death by busboy.

Tags: death by busboy

Dining Review: Atria

2009-02-17T17:12:52-05:00

Given the current state of the economy and my personal twists and turns following the elusive Pierre all over town, I had low hopes for Valentine's day. Rumor had it that Pierre had flown to Paris to check out a shake up at a recently demoted Michelin restaurant. But then some friends showed up in town unexpectedly, and I found myself dressed up for V-Day and out looking for some tasty dishes. We headed to the newly opened Atria, in Midtown. It seems I have found myself in Midtown more than a few times of late—Rouge Tomate, Fig & Olive, to name a few—not my normal stomping ground. But I was immediately attracted to Atria's location in the old Grayz space, and to the Chef, Martin Brock, who cut his culinary teeth in Kunz's kitchens. An added bonus is Nic Bradley, formerly of Per Se, as sommelier. Nic promised me that the 2007 Chateauheuf-du-Pape would be arrving soon. The upstairs bar & lounge are modern sleek yet classically inviting. I would have been happy just having a great cocktail and a snack while sitting at the bar. While having one of their signature gin cocktails, I noticed that the man next to me was thoroughly enjoyng his lobster tail ravioli. No doubt this old townhouse will become a great after work cocktail destination. (The building was once the home of J.D. Rockefeller—a very New York experience for those who truly love New York.) The menu is described as Modern European, a hallmark of the London culinary scene. Like New American, Modern European incorporates classic dishes (like cassoulet) with Mediterranean grills, regional specialties and new ingredients from all corners of the world. At Atria, given Chef Brock's Bavarian roots, there is a central European profile to some of the dishes.You'll find roasted meats that feature Asian-inspired glazed, and a lot of bacon elements throughout the menu. A very pleasurable experience at this destination-dining spot. My Notes of Prix Fixe: I've said it before and I'll say again: Prix Fixe makes better business sense, and it makes better dining sense. A rambling, ingredient-laden a la carte menu is not a responsible way to operate a resto or to dine. But a great prix fixe is a beautiful thing. Chef Brock offers a well-thought out menu just for you. The wine pairings are also gorgeous. Some Notable Dishes at Atria: Cured Tasmanian sea trout, served with lotus root chips, sesame seeds, curry remoulade – how often do you see these items looped together? A lox of a different color! Roasted chicken, served with savoy cabbage, schupfnudeln and maple cider reduction – a testament to good roasting skills, this dish feature a truly southern German element – the schupfnudeln (a spetzle-like potato noodle). A winter entrée, order before the spring thaw. Pork roast for two, served with Brussels sprouts, yams and rosemary jus – I love dishes for two (when there is someone worth sharing it with), and a fine pork roast is a beautiful thing.

Tags: atria, fig and olive, grayz, martin brock, nic bradley, notable wine list, prix fixe, romantic, rouge tomate

Anti-Valentine's Day Ideas

2009-02-12T10:50:53-05:00

Not in the mood for romance? Dread the thought of going out and looking at inter-twined lovers? There are alternatives! As Pierre has already lead you down the road of wine & chocolate, I will take you to some alternative spots: Dining alone? • Sit at the sushi counter at Blue Ribbon in SoHo and ask the head sushi chef for a recommendation. Get a small bottle of sake and watch how the sushi chef assembles your dish. Spend that $50 on yourself! • Head to MoMA and become one with your Modern (or post-Modern) self, treat yourself to a snack at the Terrace, or a drink and a nosh in at the bar in The Modern. • Catching up on shopping? After strolling Chinatown and lower Broadway and jousting with the crowds of modern-wannabees, into the French Culinary Insitute and get a seat by the window. Have a great meal for a great price, prepared by the culinary students. Hanging out with unattached friends? • One great Flatiron recommendation would be to head to Slate and grab a table and a beer. • There's always Mars Bar in the East Village. Order a round enjoy the remnants of old school punk. Definitely will not break the bank! • Do a family style meal at your favorite Chinatown restaurant. Don't have one? Check our listings for some ideas. Feeling unloved? You're not alone. 1. SoHo SPREAD THE LOVE is designed for those who are interested in spending their Valentine's Day indulging in fun ways to better take care of their mind, body, spirit, and community. Whether on a date or flying solo for the evening, this V-day event caters to New Yorkers interested in natural and sustainable ways to live a healthy and vibrant life. Organic food and community-building are central. The evening will be an opportunity to learn, network with like-minded individuals, and also kick back and enjoy the entertainment in a festive environment. Highlights: • Decadent organic buffet • Wellness workshops • DJ/dance music from the 70's, 80's, and 90's to current hits • Salsa dance lesson • Silent auction to benefit the New York Association for Naturopathic Physicians • Free chair massage (arrive early to reserve your time) Entry is by pre-sale only. Call 212-222-8187 or click here to reserve. 2. Free Wine Tasting - Feb 14, 2009 Noon-6pm New York Vintners 21 Warren Street 3. Free Highland Park Tasting - Feb 14, 2009 4pm-7pm Wonderful Single Malt Scotch Whiskies Acker Merrall & Condit 160 West 72nd Street As always, email me with your ideas. Please, no marriage proposals.

NYC City Treasures: Meeting Martha Stewart

2009-01-28T14:42:52-05:00

Not so long ago, a friend of mine was moping about and I asked what was wrong. She said, "I'm so bored." I immediately blurted out, "If you live in New York City and you're bored, it's your own fault." The reason that people flock to New York is that there is an endless list of things that need to be seen, heard, celebrated, tasted, digested, smelled, tried on, gawked at, touched, felt, dreamed of and recycled. There are a few venues around town where, no matter the day of the week or time of year, something of interest is there for the discovery. So if you find yourself saying, "I'm so bored," check them out. For the musicians & wordsmiths, there is Cornelia Street Café. For oenophiles and food enthusiasts, there is Astor Center. Long a Village fixture (like Cornelia Street Cafe), Astor Wines embarked on a new path and created the Astor Center, a green building designed to care for the wines in stock and to provide event spaces for food & wine events aimed at education. There are meeting & tasting rooms, a kitchen and a grand gallery for larger events. But it's not just about wine. It's about taste – new foods, spirits, beverages, wines, cheeses. It's also about the Collective, those people who work in the food & beverage industry and who care deeply about what they do. This is a space aimed at their needs. It's not a big fancy bank turned into a ballroom & booked for galas and weddings. It is much more sophisticated than that. It is one part village renegade, one part culinary institute, one part thriving business. Recently, I was honored to attend the NYC Women in Food event, a networking opportunity for women in the in the industry. The keynote speaker was Martha Stewart, once on the cutting edge of farm forward foods and home entertaining. Regardless of ones opinion of Ms. Stewart, there is no doubting the fact that she is a successful business woman and that she has opened doors for the new waves of women in the food & beverage world. One thing that she said sticks in my mind: No matter what we do in life, we must be passionate about it. The Astor Center is indeed a space that encourages a passionate approach to Food & Beverage. Read more about it here. Check out their weekly calendar and discover what your passion is.

Tags: astor center, cornelia street cafe, food and beverage, martha stewart, wine

Running with the Bulls, or Chasing Pierre Through Navarra

2009-01-22T16:16:10-05:00

Each year, the Spanish region of Navarra brings a collective of winemakers, chefs, importers and exporters to New York for a week of food and fun. Many of the tastings and events are for those in the trade or related industries, and not open to the general public. But several restaurants participate in the festivities and provide year-round examples of some of the great wines & flavors from Spain.

I had heard a rumor that Pierre would be somewhere among the Navarro-philes, no doubt sticking his nose into the recipe for the foie gras lollipop. So I prowled the streets of the city this week, before making my way to the tasting at the Bryant Park Grill.

Here a few places where diners can catch a glimpse of Navarra, and maybe the elusive Pierre (I still have some unfinished business with him.)

Alcalá
Boquería Flatiron
Boquería Soho
Casa Mono
Degustation
E.U.
Lily’s
Madison Lounge
Olives
Pamplona
Sala
Solera
Suba
Tía Pol
Toledo

Despite not finding Pierre, I gathered reinforcements and we took ourselves to the tasting at the Bryant Park Grill. Maybe Pierre was able to slip out through the kitchen one the white bean soup was had been ladled into the demi-tasse cups. We may not have found him, but we did come away with some great wine recommendations:

Nekeas – the 2006 Cabernet & Tempranillo and the 2007 Grenache were the stars of the evening, and paired well with the amuse buche of octopus with chimichurri sauce. This vineyard is located in the heart of Valdizrbe, known famously as a central stopping point along the “Camino de Santiago”. Our prayers were answered by these vintages.

Earth 2.0 Casta Mami – this vineyard is located in the Baja Montana zone, known for its rosados. Try their Earth 2.0 Tempranillo & Cabernet 2006 Semi-crianza. They also offer organic wines and some cutting-edge methodology. If you are green, these are the reds for you.

Bodega Castillo de Monjardin – Located in the Tierra Estella, also located on the Camino de Santiago, this bodega offers some fine 2005 Cabernet & Merlot blends, and some fine 2007 Tempranillo. The bodega has a storied past and is worth visiting when you are Navarra.

Bodegas Inurrieta – This bodega is noted for its Grenache vintages. Like many of the other bodegas in the Ribera Alta zone (on the right bank of the Ebro), the bodega also has fine Chardonnay. Overall, the bodegas in this zone account for a fair percentage of all local production.

Bodegas Chivite - The Gran Feudo Viñas Viejas Reserva was a hit. This bodega comes from the Ribera Baja, the southernmost of Navarra’s winemaking zones. This may be a small area, but it is a big player.

Note to Pierre: You missed out on the ceviche! It was rockin’!

Gracias, Navarra.

Tags: navarra