June 02, 2009
Salute to Rhubarb
Rhubarb (Rheum rhabarbarum) has come a long way from its original highland home in the cooler climes of eastern Asia (Mongolia and the rim of the Gobi desert), spreading east, west & worldwide.
The ancient variety was smaller, greener and tarter than the plant we know today. Now grown almost everywhere cool enough, rhubarb comes in a variety of colors, from green, to pink, to spotted, to red; some varieties, like those grown in upstate New York are ruby-red giants.
Used for thousands of years throughout China as an herbal remedy for digestive issues (the root in particular was favored), the Rhubarb plant made its way westward where it became a food product. The Romans incorporated it into their repertoire of recipes, some of which survived into the post-Roman period (for example in Hungary, where it is used in soups and stews). In other parts of Europe, the plant reverted to strictly medicinal uses. Here in the U.S., it is known mainly an ingredient for pie.
With such a long and illustrious career, how did rhubarb end up as the “pie fruit” that Americans know today?
The answer is simple: Sugar.
With the advent of cheap and readily available sweeteners, the tartness of rhubarb and other fruits could be addressed. Naturally, people thought, “Great! I’ll make a pie!”
The result is that rhubarb is most often associated with pie, and in particular, strawberry rhubarb pie.
But there is more to Rhubarb than pie. Rhubarb with its tartness and textures can be employed in vinaigrettes, chutneys, sauces, infused beverages, stews, emulsions and more.
Below are a few NYC restos serving inventive rhubarb-inspired fare:
Babbo’s - Semolina Budino with Rhubarb and Mint Marmellata (recipe available on line)
Klee – Recently at this Chelsea brasserie, I a had prawn dish with a rhubarb emulsion, as well as a rhubarb cobbler – both very, very good.
Perilla – Spring Fling (a vodka-rubarb-basil drink), Crispy Colorado Lamb Belly, with a rhubarb pickle puree (menu favorite)
Tomate Rouge – Rhubarb Bellini & a rhubarb crisp
Tags:
babbo, klee, perilla, rhubarb, tomate rouge
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Posted on 6/2/2009
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