Vera Cruz
For those who remember the Bedford Avenue of the mid-90’s, two eateries spring to mind: The L Café and Vera Cruz. The L Café is gone but not lamented, while Vera Cruz still pulses to the Northside beat. Hordes of other restaurants, bars, cafes and snack shops have moved in, everything from big-box Thai to intimate upscale continental, but Vera Cruz still reigns as one of the neighborhood’s most popular spots.
The always-crowded bar is a local hang-out where the drinks are cheap and the bartenders are pleasing to view. Shove your way in and demand a margarita on the rocks. The house tequila is Montezuma, not the college Cuervo that many in the crowd remember from those first semesters away from home. Ah, those were simpler times. Nowadays, there are a lot of tequilas to choose from, but the list at Vera Cruz is simple – you don’t need an agave guru to guide you to the anejo of your dreams. Someone sitting nearby is bound to have an opinion – and an upcoming gallery event.
If you want more than a drink at the bar, check in with someone who might be a host. Several people will try to get you a table. You might even get two. Ask for one in the garden – the long, narrow dining room with its flapping kitchen doors and parade of diners, service staff and bathroom-goers is frenetic. Relax in the garden and resist that ever present basket of deep-fried tortilla chips sitting in the middle of the table. Sip your margarita and eavesdrop on the two servers hovering nearby as they swap tattoo stories or argue over sidework.
Stick to the basics. The best things on the menu are those that require the fewest descriptive words. If you are sitting in the garden in a romantic capacity, keep a few things in mind. It is almost impossible to be elegant and poised while eating corn on the cob. A very traditional item, “elote” is grilled and salted, then covered with a Mexican mayonnaise and a kiss of chili powder. It is extra delicious, but gnawing on it in front of a potential romantic entanglement might not be the way to go. Order the seafood estafado appetizer or the Vera Cruz salad.
If you are there with your beloved and are used to eating from the same plate, get two orders of “elote” and one entrée to share. The entrée portions are immense. A good choice is the “pollo mole”. The mole, a special sauce built around poblano chiles and cocoa, is reliable and believable. The only thing that detracts from this dish is the ubiquitous plop of refritos, or refried pinto beans. The Vera Cruz version is bland and doesn’t really add anything to the rest of the dish.
The biggest disappointment will be the fajitas. They will be soggy and the vegetables wilted, instead of char-grilled. They will not excite you and you will regret ordering the massive heap of food that will drop in front of you. If you want meat, order the steak with chipotle sauce – and ask to hold the refritos.
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Posted on 9/14/2005
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New to Greenpoint, Paloma is spacious and forward-dreaming, anticipating the inevitable crowds that will pour out of the skyrise apartments soon to clog the view of Manhattan. In the meantime, locals have the place all to themselves, and it is a gracious space worth visiting.
Would you like a table?
The front doors open on a bar that is warm and friendly, although not as crowded as it should be. (Employees can be found huddled together here, but they are friendly and one of them will greet you and will smile, and will ask if you would like a table.)
A short list of specialty cocktails is available, but most regulars tend to sip beer. The décor and layout lie somewhere between Bauhaus and Sugar Plantation, with high ceilings and stark white walls punctuated by revolving art exhibits and a huge, white projection screen for special film viewings. The limited banquette seating is open and airy, and family-friendly. No one has to hide the kids behind the horror of vinyl covered confessionals sticky with goo. Here, everyone can experience being seen, even the newborn on her first day out on the town. There is one secluded banquette where you can geschmooze with your beloved – nab that one if you are in the mood.
“Is that my trout grilling?”
If you are with your entourage, a large group can be accommodated just across from the kitchen, where you can watch dinner grilling on the open flames. So far the kitchen staff have been extra-friendly to those of us who want to watch the action or ask a few questions.
The Menu: Like the décor, the menu is Bauhaus sparse and Urban American in flavor. The inspiration for the menu comes largely from the owners’ Caribbean roots. Everything is based on fresh, simple ingredients that change daily. Each entrée comes with a simple side of your choosing, along with a down to earth price. Nothing on this menu is above 17 dollars. If you are cuddling with a new cutie, go out on a limb and try the Paloma appetizer version of tortilla Espanola, based on the sweet rather than white potato. It’s big enough to share, but might be too filling for one person who intends on eating a light fish entrée. If you have a big appetite, start with the mussels. On our last visit, we decided to try to the codfish special, a grilled block of bacalao roofed with glazed onions and peppers and served on a foundation of white beans. The plating reflected Paloma’s simple approach to food while highlighting the Spanish nuances of Caribbean cuisine. We also ordered the hangar steak, which wasn’t quite as well seasoned as it has been in the past. But the meat was tender and cooked to a perfect medium rare.
“Care for a dessert?” Avoid the more complex offerings. They don’t always work out as planned. But do try the spicy chocolate torte. If you and your beloved both need a shot of chocolate, order two. These portions are understated, but divine.
“I’m so happy you’re here!”
Paloma seems to bring out the empathic emotions of its service staff. The hosts are so happy that they seem to float on air. Sometimes you feel like you are being led to the ballroom floor for a waltz. A beautiful woman in a gossamer dress twirled her way across the floor, and we followed. She came by several times to smile and glow at us, wordless but happy. The staff seem to take any disappointment to heart. When announcing that the kitchen had run out of the string beans, the server was crestfallen. The haricot shortage had left him at a loss for words. I thought he might hug me.
“Oops!” Paloma could use a little more sophistication on the wine list, and the service staff could be better trained in corkage, pouring and serving. Our glass of pinot noir was so full it sloshed onto the table, and the pinot grigio was served a glass that was too warm. It was sweating by the time it arrived at the table. I whipped out my Valencian and fanned it.
Fantatsticisms: The bathrooms. The two, unlabelled bathroom are a must see of dark blue fixtures and tiles, with heavy doors the glide shut and are secured with an industrial latch. A small, shrine-like mirror and flower arrangement allows for a teeth-check and a little self reflection, or a quick prayer to the goddess. The central, exposed wash basin filled with marbles is fun to splash around in for a few seconds before returning to the table. The large mirror lets you admire yourself is a soft golden light while affording a view of what’s happening behind you.
Do not expect gruesome portions of poorly plated rice and beans and a withered pork chop. Paloma is too sleek for that. Do expect fresh ingredients, clean presentation and a nice atmosphere. Oh, and a check that won’t take your breath away.
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Posted on 9/14/2005
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A good tomato is a beautiful thing. But the flavorless ovals of pith that get slapped onto sandwiches - even in gourmet sandwich shops! - are not worth the time it takes to say "hold the tomato".
It is not just that most such wedges are whacked off of the ubiquitus genetically engineered varities - no. Few tomatoes are ripened properly and, to make matters worse, most are over-refrigerated. Yuck.
But how to avoid ordering that BLT... I really wanted one for breakfast but knew that the ratty tomato slice would ruin it.
What other tasty piece of edible matter could replace the the tomato in a BLT?
The Roma Tomato
The lack of flavorful tomatoes can be mitigated to some extent by the Roma, provided it has been allowed to ripen properly.
One reason that most delis and sandwich shops use those larger, harder, pinker and flavorless tomatoes is that they store well.
But the Roma also stores well, slices well and just plain tastes better.
If you buy a handful of Romas at the market and want them to take on as much flavor as possible, do not rush home and put them in the fridge. Place them in a shallow bowl and let them sit out for a day or two.
PLEASE – put Roma tomatoes on my BLT! What a great breakfast treat: smoked bacon, red leaf lettuce, and some Roma slices on a toasted Portuguese roll – hold the mayo! A thin slice of avocado would be a nice addition.
Yummy Tomatoes
The best tomatoes are the heirloom varieties now available at some upscale markets and from Fresh Direct. These gems come in a variety of colors and sizes, from tiny yellow tear-drops to ping pong ball-sized purple.
Another widely available variety is the grape tomato, a deep red, marble sized variety whose shape and taste most reflects the original, wild tomatoes found on the western coast of South America.
/>While some are partial to the Jersey tomato, it, too, suffers from bad ripening and refrigerating habits.
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Posted on 9/12/2005
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