Dining Review: Hsin Wong

The sometimes labyrinthine streets of Chinatown, long known to cater to the Cantonese, have recently been upstaged by the explosion of Mandarin, Cantonese, Malaysian and other many other Asian eateries all over Flushing in Queens. It is not unusual to hear some one in this fine city say, “If you really want good Chinese, you have to go to Flushing.” I find that the Chinese of Chinatown are just as good as those of Flushing and I wish them all the best. As for food, both neighborhoods have great things to offer – one just has to know what one is looking for.

The problem is that, as more and more of Chinatown real esate gives over to tacky tourist shops, suspect “Thai” restos, bubble tea joints and fru-fru boutiques, it is not as easy as it once was to find good Peking duck, tender fish balls or well-prepared seasonal dishes.

When my dear friend Ms. Tz called me to announce that soft shell crab and pea shoots were to be had and in goodly portions, I had to accept her invitation. We headed to Baxter Street, to Hsin Wong, a mostly working-class eatery for the old school Cantonese.

There are menus on the table, and these do have English descriptions and the requisite sesame chicken dish, but the real food – the reason the Cantonese go there – is posted (in Chinese) on the walls.

Ms. Tz, who knows how to negotiate the twists and turns of Cantonese slang, procured a platter of soft-shell crab dressed with chopped fresh peppers and greens, a platter of sautéed pea shoots and a whole steamed fish. (We also had a small plate of roast duck to offset the two items from the sea – good luck, you know).

The crabs were perfectly prepared – crispy but not oily, seasoned but not over-salted, fragrant but not over-powering. For those of you who have never had pea shoots, you really must. These are the tender green shoots of the pea plant. They are a lovely and appetizing color of green, lightly flavored like fresh spring peas, and are not bitter. Ours were stir fried in sesame oil and garlic. We also had a perfectly prepared steamed fish – a sea bass served over a shallow sea of soy sauce and garlic and dressed in hot, fragrant oil. It was the most delicious fish I have had in a good long time.

While it is not necessary to speak Cantonese here (the staff can negotiate in English), it certainly does help to get to the bottom of the specials posted on the wall. Nevertheless, let the staff know that you are looking for something more than the usual urban lunch fare delivered to offices all over town.

This a great place to go with a friend for a middle of the week dinner, or to take out of town guests who want to experience Chinatown and whose palates are too sophisticated for sesame chicken and hot and sour soup.

Tags:   Chinatown, Hsin Wong, Ms Tz, pea shoots, soft shell crab, steamed fish

© All rights reserved.

Posted on 7/25/2007 ( Permanent Link )
 Send to Friend