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Dining Review: Per Se
Per Se has not been around as long as some of the city’s other Michelin-rated venues, but already it holds the place of an old standard as far as haute cuisine and its adherents are concerned. You cannot claim to be truly in the know if you have not dined at Per Se.
Located in the TimeWarner Building, which has proven itself to be a degustation destination, Per Se lingers behind a portal so minimally marked you might miss it and head into Masa instead. The translucent door glides upon approach, and a host emerges to direct into the discreet dining room, with its singular views and just-so interior design.
Everyone talks about how Thomas Keller brought a little piece of the famed French Laundry here from California; murmurs abound about how he is doing this and that here in New York. Who cares? Step into Per Se and enjoy it for what it is: the haut-est of haute cuisine on offer here in New York, at least that which is available to general public.
The chatter around town, especially since the Michelin Guide raised eyebrows and so highly praised Per Se, is style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; ">how difficult it is to get a reservation. Of course, such exclusivity is part of the allure and restaurants like Per Se bank on that primal New York instinct. To say, “I dined at Per Se last night” is like saying “nanny-nanny-boo-boo” to the uninitiated.
All that said, Per Se does offer the kind of food and service that many restaurants aspire to, that very complex and detailed cuisine that delineates the very good from the truly awesome. Delicate, flavorful, well-balanced, intriguing – just a few adjectives that one might apply to the ever-changing menu.
Still, Per Se lacks a little something that would make it utterly spectacular, and that is probably Keller in kitchen. Alas, the side effect of these haute-cuisine multi-brandings is that like Achilles in Hades, the provincial version is never as good as the original. No matter how gifted a chef may be, he cannot effect bi-location, and as good as his hand-picked mini-me may be, vision and voice are particular. There are moments when it shows.
Still, serious food enthusiasts, culinary students and food tourist must pass through that magic portal and experience Per Se for themselves. For me, a few things were not as finely executed as others; but that is purely opinion.
Private dining is another way to go at Per Se – perfect for any special occasion, the ultimate in service, and some of the best food in the city.
Tags:
exclusivity, food enthusiasts, haute cusine, Per Se, Thomas Keller
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Posted on 7/17/2006
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