Dining Review: Atria

Given the current state of the economy and my personal twists and turns following the elusive Pierre all over town, I had low hopes for Valentine's day. Rumor had it that Pierre had flown to Paris to check out a shake up at a recently demoted Michelin restaurant.

But then some friends showed up in town unexpectedly, and I found myself dressed up for V-Day and out looking for some tasty dishes. We headed to the newly opened Atria, in Midtown. It seems I have found myself in Midtown more than a few times of late—Rouge Tomate, Fig & Olive, to name a few—not my normal stomping ground. But I was immediately attracted to Atria's location in the old Grayz space, and to the Chef, Martin Brock, who cut his culinary teeth in Kunz's kitchens. An added bonus is Nic Bradley, formerly of Per Se, as sommelier. Nic promised me that the 2007 Chateauheuf-du-Pape would be arrving soon.

The upstairs bar & lounge are modern sleek yet classically inviting. I would have been happy just having a great cocktail and a snack while sitting at the bar. While having one of their signature gin cocktails, I noticed that the man next to me was thoroughly enjoyng his lobster tail ravioli. No doubt this old townhouse will become a great after work cocktail destination. (The building was once the home of J.D. Rockefeller—a very New York experience for those who truly love New York.)

The menu is described as Modern European, a hallmark of the London culinary scene. Like New American, Modern European incorporates classic dishes (like cassoulet) with Mediterranean grills, regional specialties and new ingredients from all corners of the world. At Atria, given Chef Brock's Bavarian roots, there is a central European profile to some of the dishes.You'll find roasted meats that feature Asian-inspired glazed, and a lot of bacon elements throughout the menu.

A very pleasurable experience at this destination-dining spot.

My Notes of Prix Fixe:

I've said it before and I'll say again: Prix Fixe makes better business sense, and it makes better dining sense. A rambling, ingredient-laden a la carte menu is not a responsible way to operate a resto or to dine. But a great prix fixe is a beautiful thing. Chef Brock offers a well-thought out menu just for you. The wine pairings are also gorgeous.

Some Notable Dishes at Atria:

Cured Tasmanian sea trout, served with lotus root chips, sesame seeds, curry remoulade – how often do you see these items looped together? A lox of a different color!

Roasted chicken, served with savoy cabbage, schupfnudeln and maple cider reduction – a testament to good roasting skills, this dish feature a truly southern German element – the schupfnudeln (a spetzle-like potato noodle). A winter entrée, order before the spring thaw.

Pork roast for two, served with Brussels sprouts, yams and rosemary jus – I love dishes for two (when there is someone worth sharing it with), and a fine pork roast is a beautiful thing.

Tags:   atria, fig and olive, grayz, martin brock, nic bradley, notable wine list, prix fixe, romantic, rouge tomate

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Posted on 2/17/2009 ( Permanent Link )
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