Dining Review: John Dory – Glory above 14th Street

We left off in 2008 in pursuit of Pierre, whom I trailed to Alloro on the Upper East Side, where I encountered Italian food, language and fun. Recently, I had reason to suspect that Pierre was at John Dory, a new hot spot across from the überindustrial façade of Morimoto and perched (no pun intended) between Craftsteak and Del Posto.

I made that journey across the wide 14th Street—presently a canal after all the wet weather—and headed north, hoping to catch him while he was enjoying a nice plate of oysters. Immediately, I found myself in the belly of one fine fish. The narrow portal of John Dory leads you into a room that is both too small and yet quite large: two small because the crowds are large and quite large because the food is so grand.

I took a seat at the bar and scanned the room. It was the kind of crowd that Pierre would blend into, the kind that loves anything April Bloomfield touches. It was obvious that everyone was there for the food and the energy and the intrigue that follows a few good cocktails. The bartender was no nonsense. She summed me up in two seconds: "You looking for Pierre?" she asked.

"How did you know?" I responded.

"You're his type."

And then she gave me a glass a champagne. I am a sucker for blanc des blancs when I'm feeling a little sassy. And I was. I heard a familiar voice behind, a friend I hadn't seen in a while. She was looking for Pierre, too. "Let's pool our resources," she said, "and a get table." She was dressed for business, all silk and danger. So I agreed. "Pierre's moved on already," she said. "I hear he's gone to Buttermilk Channel, over in Brooklyn."

"You planning on going?" I asked.

"Maybe," she said.

"Let's order," I countered, distracting her with the promise of octopus salad and cod milt. Sure, they were great dishes. I knew they would be. But then so was the oyster pan roast and the roasted cod and the grilled sardines. Sure, I knew Pierre had already left. But I stayed. I stayed for the spiced carrots and the sweet potatoes and the pudding and the demi-sec. As for Pierre and our unfinished business, I'll be tracking him down in Brooklyn.

MUST TRY:

Razor clam ceviche
Oyster pan roast (with sea urchin)
Cod milt
Fish stew
John Dory for two
Grilled sardines

BEST FEATURES

Chef April Bloomfield
Sommelier David Lynch
Fish-happy décor

Tags:   april bloomfield, buttermilk channel, craftsteak, david lynch, del posto, john dory, morimoto

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Posted on 1/7/2009 ( Permanent Link )
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