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Several weeks ago, a friend invited me to dine at Fig & Olive in Midtown, my first visit there. What struck me, in addition to the hospitality at the door, was the flavorful lightness of the fare. The whole experience was one of the most delightful I’ve had dining out in a good long time. So I decided to track down Fig & Olive’s creator, Laurent Halasz to ask him what makes Fig & Olive such a delight.
As soon as we sat down to talk, one thing became clear. Laurent is in love with the Mediterranean. His eyes take on a dreamy green as he describes a landscape of fig and olive trees, their leaves rustling in the thyme-scented breeze.
“Mediterranean food,” he says, “is what I am passionate about.”
But the Mediterranean is a vast expanse of water, a landlocked sea bordering three continents and witnessing the rise and fall of countless cultures. With its waters covering over a million square miles, the Mediterranean has a lot to consider. So I asked Laurent how he defines “Mediterranean” cuisine.
“For me, Mediterranean means along the seashore,” he replies. “Not the inland cuisine, where there are heavier sauces and fattier dishes. The fig tree and the olive tree, lemons, fresh herbs. The seashore. The lighter, fresher foods.”
A native of the French Riviera, Laurent has traveled the breadth of the Mediterranean, sampling its aromas and flavors, east to west.
The concept behind the three Fig & Olive locations, he explains, is the elegant and the uncomplicated, a characteristic of Mediterranean cuisine. From the décor to the menu there is indeed a refined grace to his vision.
“What’s happening here in New York is much more exciting than what’s happening in Europe, even in Paris,” he tells me. “Americans want to know everything about the food. The expectation is quality that is fresh, local, traceable. It’s really incredible and exciting.”
Over the years, Laurent has forged relationships with farmers and purveyors, and worked hard to develop a brand that reflects his passion. “New York is so vibrant,” he says. “You can find the best here, easily, and it doesn’t have to be expensive. In Paris, you find a lot of food for tourists. That’s not how it is here.”
At the flagship Fig & Olive location in the Meatpacking district, which also serves as the “atelier” for all three locations, the walls are decorated with products near and dear to Laurent’s heart: olive oils, vinegars and herbs. It’s an education, but not one that distracts from the dining experience. Like everything else here, the process of learning is uncomplicated.
Tasting menus are designed around specific olive oils, aged balsamic vinegars, and other products such as basil oil and tapenades, which are also available for sale. Diners can choose to learn or not. More often than not, they want to know.
“We have very loyal guests,” Laurent, “who come every week, and who love to explore the menu. They are passionate about Fig & Olive.”
And I know why they are. The ambiance, the hospitality, the quality of the ingredients, the thoughtful selection of products and the remarkably light and sophisticated hand of Pascal Lorange in the kitchen really do make Fig & Olive a true delight.
Tags:
Fig and Olive, Laurent Halasz, Mediterranean, Pascal Lorange
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Posted on 10/22/2008
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