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Lower East Side casual meets Italian-American from Brooklyn, and the result is impressive. Defying the current trend of supersize and overpriced restaurants, Frankies Spuntino has a modest 26 seats and barely any elbow room. Yet the charming dining room enhances the deceptively simply yet glorious menu. The service is very Clinton Street: neither intrusive nor effusive, you feel welcome to eat and drink as you see fit. And on a hot summer evening the clever wine list—conveniently divided by region of Italy (north, central, south, islands)—puts you in the mood. Whether you choose the cured meats à la carte or an antipasto, buffalo mozzarella, or crostini for starters, you get an immediate sense of warmth and intimacy. This is the cooking that made Frankies well-known in Brooklyn, and now poised for Manhattan success.
While we repeatedly skipped the soups, we found the salads crisp and refreshing, whether watercress with fig purée or a nice roasted beet with avocado, or a delightful assortment of roasted vegetables. While there are sandwiches on fine Sullivan Street Bakery bread, we continue to opt for the great Italian classics such as pork braciola, in a zesty red sauce (though a little too much sauce, perhaps). House-made tagliatelle with a lamb ragu is both piquant and complex, whereas the gnocchi and cavatelli are deceptively simple yet truly satisfying. Side dishes of roasted vegetables round out the entrees, and a terrific selection of cheeses to accompany your meal prepares you well for the desserts. One night we could actually smell the crème brûlée en route from the kitchen, and even our waiter was overwhelmed by its exquisiteness. The tiramisu as well has all the classic elements and right balance of flavors. End with espressi and you might just think Clinton Street is the newest provincia of Italy.
Given the tiny size of the restaurant, reservations are not accepted. So arrive early!
Tags:
frankies spuntino, sullivan street bakery
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Posted on 7/21/2006
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