July 28, 2006
12 Hour Pork Picnic and Sea Bass Quenelles - News from the
Hideaway…
(http://www.nyc.com/restaurants/The_Queens_Hideaway.75572/editorial.aspx )
Last night, we popped into Queen’s Hideaway
to see what the Queen was cooking up for dinner. The dining room was
overly warm, but no one was concerned because they were all in the garden.
We sat down in the dining room, glad to have it mostly to ourselves and
to the canine mascot who was hanging out on the banquette.
We decided to order the chevre mousse and smoked fig bruschetta to start, and then followed up with the 12 hour pork picnic and sea bass quenelles. I must say, the sea bass was absolutely perfect –
a real treat with a very light kiss of cornmeal. Accompanying the bass
was compote of sweet onions, tomato and spicy peppers and a green bean
slaw. The 12 hour pork picnic was a generous serving of slow roasted
pork loin (the kind with the bone in), a carrot & fennel slaw and herbed mashed potatoes. The spicy compote was better suited to
the pork than the sea bass, but who cares when everything on the plate tastes good?
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Then the rain started and everyone fled to the dining room, plates and forks and glasses clinking and clanking.
A young dining-couple flopped down next to us. The female
reminded me of an actress from the early 80’s, the one with the short curly brown hair and big teeth and red lipstick, wearing that kind of naval look – with the navy blue and the Ralph Lauren gold earrings. But she had probably just been born in 1980, so for her this was Retro. She began telling her dinner date about how she had never intended to be divorced, but that she had just been too
young when she had married her high school sweetheart.
Thunder, lightning, a cool breeze blowing through the long,
narrow dining room…
It is so easy to reveal information of a personal matter
while sitting in a restaurant eating 12 hour pork picnic.
“So,” she tells her dinner-date, “Now I have two roommates.”
“How’s Bill as a roommate?” her dinner date asks.
“Oh, he’s chill. He’s the chillest.”
Note: The nerdy linguist part of me begins pondering the use
of “chill” as an adjective. Is it somehow the au courant equivalent of that beatnik tag “cool”? Or does she mean he is easy going? Oh! But wait for it…
“Yeah, Bill is so chill. Not like Ed. Ed’s like, the gregarious one.”
I
sense an imbalance here, the kind of thing that happens when “roots”
cooking meets “haute cuisine”, but no one can remember where the
salt is.
The
Queen’s Hideaway is roots; the scavenged chairs and tables and glasses,
the laid back vibe, the old punk and alternative girl rock
playing on the turntable, the ease with which everyone runs from garden
to dining room, plates in hand. But there is a balance here – it’s
roots all the way, interlaced with creativity and a vast knowledge of
food and flavors. Down home cooking from the mind of the Queen.
The sea bass quenelles prove it – a new take on the old catfish nugget,
the way my father used to prepare his catch of the day. The execution
true to the basic taste and balance that the dish evokes. I got
teary-eyed thinking about it. We ducked out just as the first cloud
rolled out and another one began flashing across the sky.
Another night at the Hideaway, nicely done.
Tags:
12 hour pork picnic, al fresco, Eliza Queen, garden, Queens Hideaway, sea bass quenelles
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Posted on 7/28/2006
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July 26, 2006
New York Meat, Summer Openings and the Visiting Babettes
What was once fish is now cow as the overwhelming theme of the summer presents itself as Hoof over Scales. I must confess that this trend is interesting.
As Americans grow fatter and fatter, clog up their arteries with transfat byproducts and gorge into oblivion, we just can’t seem to get enough red meat. Moo. Moo Moo Moo. A few years ago, or so it seems to this sleepy brain, Fish was all the rage. Remember those diet gurus saying “Fish three times a week?”. I do. And do it – eat fish at least three times a week. But part of me longs for those days of the hecatomb of grilling meat, the aroma of fat sizzling in the flame, the succulent and primal flavor of flesh perfectly grilled. I am not alone. The plethora of openings celebrating Meat has been impressive. Let’s start with burgers: In the not-so-distant past, we were treated to the arrival of Pop and DuMont, masterpieces added to the burgerscape (for a list click on “burger” in tags http://www.nyc.com/tag/burger.aspx?tab=all ). Now there is Zip.
The name portends an element of speed, a Zippo lighter, a speakeasy (as
in “zip it, bud”). The very thought that New Yorkers are STILL looking
for the Valhalla of Burgers is not surprising. Aside from the fact that In-N-Out has yet to make an East Coast appearance, there is Mass Migration to think about. Not all city dwellers were birthed here. Plenty came
into being elsewhere on the continental map. Some of us long for a
prime burger cooked on a mesquite grill, brushed with Worcestershire sauce and a kiss of cayenne, then served on a hot bun with spicy mustard, finely shredded Iceberg lettuce and sweet onion (and
I mean FINE) and a thin layer of sliced dill pickles. If cheese must be
added, the burger has to be on the grill and the cheese has to melt. But, so often in NYC, we get ground beef cooked a
greasy grill, served with a unwieldy leaf of bitter Romaine lettuce,
slices of pink tomatoes and the crappiest cheese around. That’s why Pop
and DuMont and now Zip are so popular. They offer better meat
and a little more creativity. Still, I miss the mesquite and the
shredded lettuce & onions. On the other hand, the array of cheese
and buns and burger-additives like sun dried tomato compote keep me interested. Next, there is Steak. No longer the province of cigar-smoking CEOs, the Steak is making a big comeback as Americans cast caution to wind and give the finger to the mad cows
out there. Like mushrooms over the septic tank, steakhouses are
sprouting all over town – and not just in the Meatpacking District. The
Steakscape has gone hip and upscale
– Strip House, Craftsteak, BLT, Capitale Grille to name a few. Many
more are slated to open in the coming months. Moo Moo Mooooo.. Bacchus Says: Don’t forget to drink your red wine, people! It is rumored to be the antidote to whatever troubles the medical community regarding our enormous consumption of bovine flesh.So, the recent opening around town have begun to
tilt to the meat-end of the scale. The height of Summer is a strange
time to have an opening. The usual glitter and glam are summering on the island or the Finger Lakes, or maybe Block Island. They won’t be back until the school uniforms begin to clog the subways again. But to keep things lively, the visiting Babettes makes the most of it. They show up at openings hoping to glimpse someone famous
and to display with their shopping bags; they come to lunch at a
terrace and think wistfully how they must return to Terre Haute and
Lawrence and Blue Eye. They don’t come to enjoy the city as much as they come to be seen in it, and they don’t come to enjoy the food as much as they do the opportunity to say they were here and there. Recently, a pair of Babettes had wandered into Payard’s new place in Chinatown (oddly called InTent
http://www.nyc.com/restaurants/InTent.75638/editorial.aspx )– a location still mysterious on several levels – and were giddy with excitement over the newness. They talked about how they would talk about it, but they talked not about the food or the venue. I much prefer the openings later in the year, when
the usual crowds are back from their tanning season and gearing up for
the holidays. And while one Babette might be very much like another,
those in town temporarily just don’t seem to get it. Babette on Meat:Two Babettes explore the menu at an upscale eatery.
The bigger one has her little blue Tiffany's bag on the table in plain
sight. Her pinky finger rests against it as she peruses the menu.
The small one couldn't get enough of the Armani Exchange logos. I am
sure she has it tatooed on her _______ (fill in the blank). “Oh, I don’t know about this. It is this a meat?”“What?” “Lardons. What’s a lardon.” “It’s a guy with a hard on!” (giggle giggle, guilty glances, a hush) “Seriously, I don’t eat meat. What is it?” “I don’t know. Don’t order it.” “I guess I’ll order the fish.” “That’s about the only vegetarian thing on the menu.”
Tags:
Babette, Bacchus, BLT, bovine, burger, Capitale Grille, Craftsteak, flesh eating, hecatomb, meat, meat eaters, moo moo, red wine, Strip House
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Posted on 7/26/2006
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July 17, 2006
Dining Review: Bond Street Tucked away on Bond Street, above a busy lounge of the same name, Bond Street the restaurant occupies the first two floors of what looks like a discreet townhouse. No signs glow; there is only the silent portal. But inside, Bond Street hums with conversation, its minimalist interior of dark and light geometry turning the long rectangular space into a fabulous dining hall. Banquettes and tables intended to evoke a certain Japanese aesthetic cradle diners as service staff in the ubiquitous all-black downtown uniform sweep through in waves. Pulsating world beat music keeps the dining room chattering.
The menu, like the interior design, is based on Japanese standards. But this is not meant to be just another sushi house with a California roll accompanying the chicken teriyaki. There is no teriyaki. Appetizers include the pan-seared tuna and foie gras, wagyu tataki (kobe beef pan seared in truffle butter), and octopus sashimi. Everything is delicately handled, the miso glaze on the lamb chops providing just the right kiss or flavor without the cloying aftertaste that often accompanies glazed meat in this city.
The small selection of rolls features eel, spicy tuna and lobster, all nicely prepared and very flavorful, although not breath-taking. The desserts are quite large – easily shared – and feature the very popular “chocolate meltdown”, fruit sorbets and an interesting crème brulee pleasingly presented if not somewhat of a challenge to mange on the plate.
The presentation of each dish is clean and artful, from plating to delivery. The only issue is the noise level, which forces the service staff to bend down and speak directly into the diners’ ears, which can be awkward, especially when chopsticks are involved.
The wine list features a solid selection of New and Old World reds and whites, champagnes, and an extensive saki list.
While not cheap, this is an affordable venue to experience high-quality sushi and some new takes on old standards like braised short ribs and the lobster roll.
Notes: The upstairs dining room is les nosy than the downstairs, so if you are out with your beloved or are on a first date, ask for the upper floor.
Tags:
glam, kobe beef, saki, sush
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Posted on 7/17/2006
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July 17, 2006
Dining Review: Per Se Per Se has not been around as long as some of the city’s other Michelin-rated venues, but already it holds the place of an old standard as far as haute cuisine and its adherents are concerned. You cannot claim to be truly in the know if you have not dined at Per Se.
Located in the TimeWarner Building, which has proven itself to be a degustation destination, Per Se lingers behind a portal so minimally marked you might miss it and head into Masa instead. The translucent door glides upon approach, and a host emerges to direct into the discreet dining room, with its singular views and just-so interior design.
Everyone talks about how Thomas Keller brought a little piece of the famed French Laundry here from California; murmurs abound about how he is doing this and that here in New York. Who cares? Step into Per Se and enjoy it for what it is: the haut-est of haute cuisine on offer here in New York, at least that which is available to general public.
The chatter around town, especially since the Michelin Guide raised eyebrows and so highly praised Per Se, is style="FONT-WEIGHT: bold; ">how difficult it is to get a reservation. Of course, such exclusivity is part of the allure and restaurants like Per Se bank on that primal New York instinct. To say, “I dined at Per Se last night” is like saying “nanny-nanny-boo-boo” to the uninitiated.
All that said, Per Se does offer the kind of food and service that many restaurants aspire to, that very complex and detailed cuisine that delineates the very good from the truly awesome. Delicate, flavorful, well-balanced, intriguing – just a few adjectives that one might apply to the ever-changing menu.
Still, Per Se lacks a little something that would make it utterly spectacular, and that is probably Keller in kitchen. Alas, the side effect of these haute-cuisine multi-brandings is that like Achilles in Hades, the provincial version is never as good as the original. No matter how gifted a chef may be, he cannot effect bi-location, and as good as his hand-picked mini-me may be, vision and voice are particular. There are moments when it shows.
Still, serious food enthusiasts, culinary students and food tourist must pass through that magic portal and experience Per Se for themselves. For me, a few things were not as finely executed as others; but that is purely opinion.
Private dining is another way to go at Per Se – perfect for any special occasion, the ultimate in service, and some of the best food in the city.
Tags:
exclusivity, food enthusiasts, haute cusine, Per Se, Thomas Keller
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Posted on 7/17/2006
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July 13, 2006
Good Food and the Search for The Best Restaurant in New York Now that the Fancy Food show is over and Restaurant Week is upon us, we can ponder what is Good Food and what does it mean, “The Best Restaurant in New York”?
Good Food
Everyone has an opinion about food. We have to; food is not something we can avoid until we are dead. Regardless of how much time we put into thinking about, preparing or consuming food, we can all work up an opinion. Some of us hate liver, others adore it; some of us are vegetarians, others omnivores; some love spicy foods that others deplore. There is an opinion from everyone about everything that they put into their mouths.
Note: I went to see a gastroenterologist the other day (I’ve been having a few “issues”), and he looked me straight in the eye and said, “Ninety-nine percent of women have an eating disorder. There’s absolutely nothing wrong with you. It’s all in your head.” How does one respond to a comment like that? I let out a little laugh. After all, I’ve been living with my gut for many years. But he pressed on. “If we scratch the surface deeply enough, we’ll find out what event from your childhood has caused you to have this eating disorder.” I left his office with the distinct impression that he believes me to be bulimic.
I do not waste good food in such a way! If I am going to pay upwards of $400 for dinner, I certainly will not intentionally force an expensive regurgitation!
Good Food is much too precious for such a perverse fate. But how do we define good food? What is it that compels us to say, “Oh, that’s good!”
There are four basic things that drive our opinion: aroma, taste, texture and visual appeal. And these are all complex reactions to whatever goes in our mouths.
Aroma activates highly primitive parts of the brain, vestiges of a much more scent-driven mammalian past. Have you ever gotten a rush from the aroma of freshly ground coffee beans? Have you ever sniffed at milk and been repulsed? Always smell your food! It’s hard to enjoy things that can’t get past the sniffer.
Texture is something we don’t often talk about, but it is often the reason that children reject certain foods. I never liked oatmeal – it felt slimy to me, no matter how much butter and brown sugar my mother put in it. I have never like that texture and never will. One of my nephews eschews potatoes because he does not like the way they feel in his mouth. Even as an infant he would spit them out with a grimace. He is very consistent.
Visual appeal is certainly important, but let’s face it, some of us will wolf-down the crappiest looking burger and fries. But food with the head on, bone in, eyes staring up at us is hard for some people to take because it too closely resembles the animal and that makes us feel guilty. We shy away from colors that do not seem natural, like blue or bright orange.
Taste is the most complex indicator of what we consider "good". Basically there are four tastes that combine together in infinite ways – sweet, sour, salty, and bitter. According to Food Experts and Gurus, Good Food is that which balances these elements of taste. Of course, the balancing act is a matter of opinion, and also of skill. I find that in many restaurants there is too much emphasis on the bitter; I have even had a conversation with a chef regarding the heavy pour of balsamic vinegar that he prefers; his reply is that the greater percentage of the population prefers the heavier balsamic pour to the light. I am outnumbered, it seems.
But what about Nature? Sometimes, a single fruit or vegetable can be the most beautiful thing on the Earth. A few weeks ago I had the most wonderful watermelon for breakfast. It was Good Food. And Good For me.
Good Food should be: Fresh, Well Pre-Prepared and Healthy
The Best Restaurant In NYC
Like Good Food, Best Restaurant has many meanings for many people. It is unfair to compare the many classes of restaurants that abound all over town. Holes-in-the-wall cannot be compared to the likes of Per Se. But if we break it all down into too many categories, we make the whole thing too complex and make too many rules; then it’s no fun anymore.
Here a few notes on what I think are the best at what they do, that I like to frequent and that do not disappoint me.
Vong– I always have fun here, enjoy the food and the wine; I do not expect 4 star service, and the best thing about the service is that is is appropriate and non-intrusive. They don't give out names or talk to me while my mouth is full; they don't interrupt conversation with some ridiculous request for more bottled water. In short, I am happy as a clam when I arrive and when I leave.
Fiamma– If I know Michael White is in the kitchen, I will run down to SoHo and grab a drink and a snack at the bar, which is a great place to sit and chat. Michael has a great touch and when he creates something, I want to try it. He has never disappointed me. Nor has the wine list.
DuMont Burger– I just love this place and the burgers, and the cheeses to put on the burgers, and the bar, and the vibe. So simple, yet so fresh and so good.
Queens Hideaway– I have to say that half the fun here is seeing what Eliza will do next. And that smoker she has out back really does remind me of so many tasty treats from the past. Some of her dishes work out better than others, but what fun it is to see her in action.
According to the Restaurant Critics, none of these restaurants would be worthy of Best. But I am not judging based on mistakes; I don’t approach a restaurant looking to see what will disappoint me. I want to have fun and to enjoy. I am very convivial, which brings me back to the Gastroenterologist who told me that my stomach issues were ‘all in my head”. I got two words for you Doc….
Our own Chef Pierre, whose recent editorial rates Le Cirque the virtual best (http://www.nyc.com/people/Chef_Pierre/blog/4689/Dining_Review_Le_Cirque ), makes many fine points as to how he arrived at his rating, and certainly his review makes me want to go and splurge.
Having recently dined at Per Se, I am interested to check out Le Cirque and do a little comparison, since these are two venues that do ineed merit head-to-head comparison.
I thought Per Se was great – everything finely prepared, professionally presented, carefully attended to. But there was a little something missing, that tiny piece of the puzzle that I can’t quite put my finger on.
As for "The Best", I just don't think it is possible that one restaurant can make that claim. Still, Americans are fixated on the whole concept of "Number One!", so there will continue to be ratings. However, "Best" for me is a mood thing.
Tags:
best restaurants in new york, DuMont Burger, Fiamma, good food, Le Cirque, Michael White, Per Se, Queens Hideaway, Vong
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Posted on 7/13/2006
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July 10, 2006
Watching the Cup Floweth Over
On Sunday, we trekked over to Fada to watch the World Cup with the Francophones, who were suitably animated and even anxious to see the French team compete in a final that no one thought they would ever reach.
The amazing thing about underdogs is that they have nothing to lose; witness Rafael Nadal, the young upstart tennis monster playing against the greatest tennis player of modern times, Roger Federer. You have to love the underdog.
We arrived at the bar an hour before game time, and the place was already packedto the gills. I have to give credit to Phillippe, the manager, for even knowing who ordered what through that sea of waving arms. Now that is talent. It was non-stop, and through it all there was very little breakage - zut!
The amazing thing about the French is that like to act as though they don’t care, even when they care very much. Many of the francophones in the room were looking cool and collected while the Italian fans jumped up and down and shouted out loving epithets at various peoples and objects.
For some reason, the not-really-big-enough flat screen TV was tuned in to Univision, which made the experience even more interesting. The Univision sports commentators are certainly much more interesting to listen to than those on ESPN, who can make even the most interesting game as boring as a quilting bee. It was also interesting to see how many people in the crowd were able to follow the commentary – that is, when the crowd was not shouting so loud that the building shook.
I learned all about soccer while hanging out in Spanish bars, so I know well the expression “nada mas que teatro”, which the Italian players are so often guilty of. And of course there was much theater on Sunday.
It was, however, impossible to eat my croque messieur, that French bar sandwich that makes American ham and cheese look so crappy. It was just too crowded to bend the elbows enough to get food to lips, and to keep pony tails out of the food. I did manage to slurp down a few 1664 beers, a French favorite. Yes, I wanted to represent for the French. I admit that they aremuch more like us than either we or they would like to admit.
There was a lone a big mouthed neo-hippy who could have done with a shower felt compelled to point out that while on the French team almost all the players are “minorities”, on the Italian team, all the players are pure Italian. He wanted us all to know that real Frenchmen can’t play soccer. But what he seems unable to understand is that in France, anyone can be French, just as here in the USA, anyone can be American. Somehow, this achingly dull example of American intellectualism believes that France is full of white people wearing moustaches and striped sleeveless t-shirts. But I am 100% sure that he has never been there, and probably has never been any further than NJ or PA.
Sporting events can bring out the best and the worst in human beings – not so much from the players but from the crowds, who, unable to play a game for themselves, attempt to verbally, or even physically, subdue those around them. So it was with stinky block-headed man.
The most disappointing moment of the whole event was when Zindane was sent off for head-butting one of the Italian players, his reasons for doing that are still not clear to me, although it was clearly a reaction to something that had been said to him. Like Rooney getting sent off after Ronaldo provoked him, the call was the correct one. However, it might be worth handing our yellow cards to those who provoke. Maybe not. I once saw quite a fight break out at an Astros game when the catcher for one team called the pitcher for the other a “hot dog”.
How can a food word be so provocative?
Zindane, now retired from the game of soccer, is clearly one of the best players in world and of the past few decades. It was sad to see him go out like that. But as my French husband pointed out, he is known to have a somewhat short fuse.
As soon as the match was over, everyone poured into the streets, anxious for some clean New York air. Italian fans poured out an adjacent bar. There were no fights or catcalls. The French are too cool for that. But there were some tears in the eyes.
Tags:
clean New York aur, Fada, futbol, headbutt, soccer, stinky man, World Cup, zidane, Zindane
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Posted on 7/10/2006
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July 07, 2006
Ah, yes, the Summer 2006 Restaurant Week (which is two weeks...) is almost upon us. As with all restaurant weeks, you must factor in the gym-time you will need following this food fest.
Hungry? I know I am! Below are a few of the restaurants participating, with a few notes to help guide you in choosing. But you better act fast! Foodies all over town have already staked their claims! Call now and negotiate a table or two.
This is a great opportunity to meet friends, try some new, great food, and see what the Summer 2006 Footwear looks like now that the rain has stopped.
For more information about restaurant week, have a look at: www.nyc.com/arts__attractions/2006_Summer_Restaurant_Week.684713/editorial.aspx
And for a list of participating restaurants, click http://www.nyc.com/tag/2006_summer_restaurant_week.aspx
5 Ninth *Glammed Out Ada * Alfama Restaurant Inc *Must Try Angelo & Maxie's Steakhouse *Lively Aquavit *Always a Winner Arezzo FONT-FAMILY: 'Century Gothic'; "> Ristorante * Artisanal *Always a Winner Asia de Cuba *Elegant August Restaurant * Barbounia (formerly Patria) *Must Try Bice Restaurant * Blue Smoke *Always a Winner Blue Water Grill *Lively Bobby Van's Steakhouse *Lively Bolo * Brasserie * Butter Restaurant *Must Try Capsouto Freres Bistro *Duck Centrico *Must Try Chanterelle *Romance Church & Dey-Restaurant * City Crab & Seafood Corp *After Shopping City Hall the Restaurant *Lively Craftbar *Must Try Cub Room *Lively Dawat Haute Indian Cuisine *Take the Family Delmonico's Restaurant *Always a Winner Devi *Must Try Django *After Shopping DominicRestaurant and Social Club * Dona (formerly Bellini Restaurant) * Dos CaminosPark *Lively Dos Caminos Soho *Lively DuanePark Cafe * Eleven Madison Park *Always a Winner EN Japanese Brasserie * Fiamma *Always a Winner Filli Ponte Restaurant * Fleur De Sel *Romance Gigino Restaurant * Giorgio's of Gramercy * Gotham Bar & Grill *Always a Winner Gramercy Tavern *Always a Winner Grotta Azzurra Pizzeria & Restaurant * Gusto * Hatsuhana Japanese Restaurant *Eastside I Trulli *Game Icon Restaurant * Il Cantinori *Explore the neighborhood Inagiku * Indochine Restaurant *Must Try Kittichai * L' Impero Restaurant * Le Colonial Restaurant *Always a Winner Lucy * Lupa Restaurant * Maloney & Porcelli *Lively Mercer Kitchen *Always a Winner Mesa Grill *Lively Metrazur * Michael Jordan's the Steak House *After Shopping Monkey Bar *Lively Montebello Ristorante Italiano * Montrachet *Always a Winner Mr K's Restaurant * Naples 45 Ristorante E Pizzeria At MetlifeBuilding *Take the Family Nino's Positano * Nobu *Always a Winner One If by Land Two If by Sea *Always a Winner Ono *Glammed Out Opia Restaurant * Oscar's at the Waldorf Astoria * Palm Restaurant *Take the Family Palm Too *Take the Family Pampano * Patroon *Lively Periyali Restaurant *Must Try Perry St. *Romance Pershing Square *Take the Family Riingo Restaurant * River Cafe *Always a Winner Rosa Mexicano (formerly America Restaurant) *Lively Rosa Mexicano *Lively Roy's New York Restaurant *Must Try Salute * Shun LeePalace East * Sixty Six Leonard St (66) *Always a Winner Smith & Wollensky *Lively Spice Market Restaurant *Glammed Out Steak Frites *Take the Family SushiSambaPark *Lively Sushi Samba Seven *Lively Tabla *Always a Winner Tamarind East 22nd St * Tao *Glammed Out Thalassa *Elegant Tocqueville Restaurant *Always a Winner Tribeca Grill *Always a Winner Trio Restaurant & Bar * Tropica Restaurant At Metlife Bldg * Union Square Cafe *Always a Winner Vento Trattoria *Always a Winner Vong *Glammed Out Water Club Restaurant the * Waters Edge Restaurant *Elegant ZoeRestaurant *After Shopping
Tags:
2006 Restaurant week NYC, Guide to Restaurant Week, New York City Restaurant, New York City Restaurant Week, Summer Restaurant Week 2006
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Posted on 7/7/2006
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July 03, 2006
If anyone doubts the annexation of Williamsburg/Greenpoint into the greater Manhattan orbit of big-box multifunctional art-glam-food, all one has to do is look around and take stock of the neighborhood. Banking on the inevitable land-scramble that is coming to this corner of Hipsterville, investors and carpetbaggers have laid down bets on their ability to fill ever-larger spaces.
First, there was Planet Thailand moving into new, cavernous digs, then Sea Thai with space large enough for a reflecting pond, Tacu Tacu with its interior cabanas, and Paloma with its soaring ceilings and late night party vibe. Now there is My Moon, some 250 seats worth of fine dining plopped down in the heart of old industrial Willy-B, and hoping to cash in on the never-ending Willy B Boom.
Make no mistake. My Moon is an attractive place. Enter the patio, with Vong-style covered booths on the left, and a brunch deck to the right. The feel is that of a modern Mediterranean boardwalk; the only thing missing is access to the water - but a fountain along the wall does its best to stand in. The interior, built among the ruins of an old industrial boiler room, is decked out in metal sculptures and warm, earthy ochre tones. A giant bar dominates the center room, while cozy sets of tables allow diners to converse while contemplating the Mediterranean menu.
The best thing about My Moon is that it offers an alternative to the Thai and-sushi-dominated culinary landscape. Here, hot & cold meze, couscous and a variety of kebabs and fishes are on hand, along with a few pan-Spanish-inspired tapas that mix well with the Turkish fare (try the morcilla piquillos or the charcuterie platter). But My Moon is not just a Turkish restaurant with an art space slapped on top of it.
What makes My Moon truly different from other upscale Turkish/Middle Eastern venues is that the food is not necessarily prepared in the traditional way, nor is it served in the traditional style. The tuna stack, a tartar topped with toasted beets, arrives like something from BLT; the pan roasted tuna is plated like something from 66. For those expecting the food to be run-of-the-mill Turkish, the each item here is a nice surprise. It is not Old Istanbul, but New Istanbul; for those who have visited Turkey and know its cultural capital, this restaurant works that modern Turkish aesthetic. For the uninformed, the food does not meet expectations of the usual kebab house preparation and presentation.
The best things on the menu are the cold meze, like the corban salata(pronounced chore-bahn), the octopus salad, the tuna stack, the roasted tuna and the kebabs. The couscous is okay but lacks a little something from North Africa, perhaps some of the spicy red sauce that is usually offered alongside a couscous dish. Wine selections are decent, as are beer. Specialty cocktails are not cutting edge, but pair well with the food on offer.
While not expensive for Manhattan, for some Brooklynites My Moon cuts too deeply into the food & fun budget. The overall feel is not typical of the neighborhood, at least not the neighborhood of today; but it is definitely the vibe of the tomorrow that is to come to. Hipsters might cast a disparaging eye as they try to ignore what is happening all around them, but for those who come over the East River on the L Train to try out the new and yes, less-expensive fare on offer in Brooklyn, this is the place to be. Change is coming. The old guard of hole-in-the-wall eateries, cafes run with college-alternative-attitude, and renegades like Vera Cruz will soon find itself grossly outnumbered.
As atmany of local eateries, service can be spotty, if not altogether dippy. Most of the servers here take it easy, and the timing from the kitchen can be somewhat off. However, there is no press or stress – just relax and enjoy the meze.
Tags:
al fresco, big box, glammed out, live jazz, My Moon, Tirkish, Williamsburg eateries, WIlly B
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Posted on 7/3/2006
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