Dining Review: BREAD TriBeCa

BREAD TriBeCa
301 Church St. (btwn. West Broadway and Church St.)
Manhattan
Phone: 212-334-0200
Fax: 212-334-3272
www.breadtribeca.com


When looking for more than just great bread to dip into a ramekin of superb olive oil, stop by BREAD Tribeca, cousin to Bread on Spring Street, and now an upscale-bohemian palace of Italian delights.

A sprinkling of neatly appointed terrace tables in front beckons diners, and tucks BREAD neatly into the neighborhood, giving the outward appearance of a place that has been there for a number of years. Step through the portal and inhale the wondrous Mediterranean aromas that envelope the dining room, then stop at the bar to your right and have a glass of Prosecco while you take in the sights and sounds. But ignore the distracting big screen TV with its repeating movie loop; it adds nothing to the experience. Focus instead on the action taking place in the semi-open kitchen. This is the epicenter of Chef Sarah Jenkins’ magic. If possible, get a table away from the front door and closer to the front window.

While BREAD is the namesake and some say the star of this corner eatery, there are plenty of other culinary morsels that make this a more robust dining experience. Start with the fritto misto, a mixture of fried seafood (calamari and mussels, among others) and vegetables or the Octopus Carpaccio. Many of the entrees are standards expected at any Italian eatery (like penne), but there are a few surprises, such as the homemade Pappardelle with rabbit ragu. The pizza choices are solid and satisfying, so it is best to go with the flavors you like most. The wood-fired brick oven gives a great smoky flavor to everything that goes inside, so enjoy! Also good are the panini and the crostini, especially the Sardines, Tomatoes and Peperonciano on a baguette.

Good-bye to Liguria: When BREAD first opened, the cuisine promised was Ligurian, a fresh “blue & green” cuisine that features seafood, greens, nuts & berries. Now, the menu is all over the place: Genoan, Tuscan, South Italian, Bolognese. It has great points and mediocre points; you can choose what you know, or you can go out on a limb and order something you weren’t expecting, such as the poached chicken.

The only downsides are the acoustic imperfections of the room, which allow conversation to ricochet in rapid fire, the weak dessert offerings, and of course the change of direction from Liguria to pan-Italy. Liguria was a rarity, whereas Ricotta & Spinach Ravioli Bolognese sauce can be found all over town. Also, the website is perhaps the least helpful/interesting/informative of those out there.

Tags:   BREAD Tribeca, Chef Sara Jenkins, olive oil, Tribeca

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Posted on 9/18/2006 ( Permanent Link )
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