Celebrate New York – Eat Rhubarb

I know what you are thinking. Rhubarb !Ick. Unless you are a fan of strawberry rhubarb pie you probably have no use for this vegetable-cum-fruit. But you are missing out on a flavor that can change up the old culinary routine, or that can inspire a burst of creativity on a Sunday afternoon.

First, New York has long been famous for the fecundity of the land and the waters that flow through and also surround it. While rhubarb is not a plant native to North America ((its origins are the uplands of China and Mongolia)), it thrives in the temperate environment of New York. Rhubarb plants from upstate can put on quite a show. While the City does not necessarily inspire thoughts of greenery, one has to go only a short distance to see what Mother Nature is capable of. And now it is rhubarb season, that time of year when these stalky plants rise red and leafy from the ground.

Nostalgia:
When we were just tykes, my brother and I used to pick rhubarb stalks and chew on them. They were sour and crunchy and, like celery, they had strings. A very entertaining garden item for the curious child!(The natural red dye of the rhubarb was fun, too.)

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Modern life has made little of rhubarb.It exists almost exclusively to be made into a strawberry rhubarb pie. Blah.

Recently, I bought a few bundles of rhubarb, determined to do something tasty with them. I settled on rhubarb & ginger mousse . The stalks I had purchased were about 12 inches longs, ranging from two to three inches in width, and were a dark red with a hint of violet. I took about five of these stalks and chopped them into pieces about ½ thick, then sprinkled them with sugar and let them rest while I did other things.

The rhubarb absorbs the sugar slowly, turning it pink, which is a neat effect. Then I put these sugar-coated pieces in a saucepan and covered them with water, added a tablespoon of sugar and two tablespoons of Chiver’s Ginger Marmalade. (If I had been so inspired, I would have grated fresh ginger into the saucepan and added a little more sugar. But the Chiver’s Ginger Marmalade s really quite good – if you haven’t tried it, you should.)

After the rhubarb came to a boil, I let it cook until it was completely soft – this takes very little time, since much of the rhubarb is water. Then, I strained the boiled matter and let it cool. It turns a lovely pink color. Meanwhile, I took a pack of plain gelatin and dissolved it cold water. Then I put it on a low flame let it come to a slow boil. At this point I added another tablespoon of the ginger marmalade and stirred. As the gelatin thickened, I turned off the flame and let the gelatin begin to cool.

I then took the rhubarb and put it in the food processor, whipping it until it was fluffy, adding sugar to taste. Then I added the cooling gelatin and whipped it until it was foamy. Next, I poured the fluffy pink mixture into dessert cups and put them in the frig to set. It was really, really good - the texture was light, the balance of sweet & sour just right for a spring evening. Our dinner guests had a hard time identifying the “fruit”, and they marveled at the texture and the flavor.

Other New York Items:

Try the heirloom tomatoes that will soon be arriving at the city’s many green markets, the cheeses from Sprout Creek Farms, the wines from Long Island, and the many great herbs that are available in green markets, green grocers, speciality stores and also from FreshDirect.com.

What do I do with all of that thyme?

It is really fun to cook with fresh thyme, which is generally purchased in a bundle bigger than most apartment dwellers need for the week. An infusion of fresh thyme and lemon peels is a tasty treat, and also makes a lovely cool beverage in summer. Some people freeze herbs like thyme in ice cubes, but I dry mine and later use them for rubs and for sauces. Basil, which is very delicate, can also be dried and then rubbed into a powder that, when sprinkled on feta cheese, adds a really nice flavor. So look around and see what the local producers have to offer, and then get creative!