On the Wings of Paloma....

New to Greenpoint, Paloma is spacious and forward-dreaming, anticipating the inevitable crowds that will pour out of the skyrise apartments soon to clog the view of Manhattan. In the meantime, locals have the place all to themselves, and it is a gracious space worth visiting.

Would you like a table?

The front doors open on a bar that is warm and friendly, although not as crowded as it should be. (Employees can be found huddled together here, but they are friendly and one of them will greet you and will smile, and will ask if you would like a table.)

A short list of specialty cocktails is available, but most regulars tend to sip beer. The décor and layout lie somewhere between Bauhaus and Sugar Plantation, with high ceilings and stark white walls punctuated by revolving art exhibits and a huge, white projection screen for special film viewings. The limited banquette seating is open and airy, and family-friendly. No one has to hide the kids behind the horror of vinyl covered confessionals sticky with goo. Here, everyone can experience being seen, even the newborn on her first day out on the town. There is one secluded banquette where you can geschmooze with your beloved – nab that one if you are in the mood.

“Is that my trout grilling?”
If you are with your entourage, a large group can be accommodated just across from the kitchen, where you can watch dinner grilling on the open flames. So far the kitchen staff have been extra-friendly to those of us who want to watch the action or ask a few questions.

The Menu: Like the décor, the menu is Bauhaus sparse and Urban American in flavor. The inspiration for the menu comes largely from the owners’ Caribbean roots. Everything is based on fresh, simple ingredients that change daily. Each entrée comes with a simple side of your choosing, along with a down to earth price. Nothing on this menu is above 17 dollars. If you are cuddling with a new cutie, go out on a limb and try the Paloma appetizer version of tortilla Espanola, based on the sweet rather than white potato. It’s big enough to share, but might be too filling for one person who intends on eating a light fish entrée. If you have a big appetite, start with the mussels. On our last visit, we decided to try to the codfish special, a grilled block of bacalao roofed with glazed onions and peppers and served on a foundation of white beans. The plating reflected Paloma’s simple approach to food while highlighting the Spanish nuances of Caribbean cuisine. We also ordered the hangar steak, which wasn’t quite as well seasoned as it has been in the past. But the meat was tender and cooked to a perfect medium rare.

“Care for a dessert?” Avoid the more complex offerings. They don’t always work out as planned. But do try the spicy chocolate torte. If you and your beloved both need a shot of chocolate, order two. These portions are understated, but divine.

“I’m so happy you’re here!”
Paloma seems to bring out the empathic emotions of its service staff. The hosts are so happy that they seem to float on air. Sometimes you feel like you are being led to the ballroom floor for a waltz. A beautiful woman in a gossamer dress twirled her way across the floor, and we followed. She came by several times to smile and glow at us, wordless but happy. The staff seem to take any disappointment to heart. When announcing that the kitchen had run out of the string beans, the server was crestfallen. The haricot shortage had left him at a loss for words. I thought he might hug me.

“Oops!” Paloma could use a little more sophistication on the wine list, and the service staff could be better trained in corkage, pouring and serving. Our glass of pinot noir was so full it sloshed onto the table, and the pinot grigio was served a glass that was too warm. It was sweating by the time it arrived at the table. I whipped out my Valencian and fanned it.

Fantatsticisms: The bathrooms. The two, unlabelled bathroom are a must see of dark blue fixtures and tiles, with heavy doors the glide shut and are secured with an industrial latch. A small, shrine-like mirror and flower arrangement allows for a teeth-check and a little self reflection, or a quick prayer to the goddess. The central, exposed wash basin filled with marbles is fun to splash around in for a few seconds before returning to the table. The large mirror lets you admire yourself is a soft golden light while affording a view of what’s happening behind you.

Do not expect gruesome portions of poorly plated rice and beans and a withered pork chop. Paloma is too sleek for that. Do expect fresh ingredients, clean presentation and a nice atmosphere. Oh, and a check that won’t take your breath away.

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Posted on 9/14/2005 ( Permanent Link )
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